review
The Seafood Barge
Photo credit: Newsday/Anthony Barboza | Baked oysters at Seafood Barge in Southold.
Galleries
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED
The Seafood Barge now is Noah's arc. The waterside warhorse, long defined by maximal lobsters and minimal style, has welcomed short-lived chefs in recent years. It's currently the kitchen of Noah Schwartz, who has dramatically improved and updated the food. The rest of the joint looks about the same, in blue and white, full of marine kitsch and memories. Years ago, when this was Armando's Seafood Barge, you wanted to return for those big lobsters. Schwartz skillfully and confidently beckons you back, too.
THE BEST
Grilled and filleted sardines, lightly smoky and sweet, are served on grilled bread, accented with basil, piquillo peppers and lemon aioli. Chiles, cilantro, garlic and green onions spark roasted prawns. A duet of savory lobster-knuckle sliders is finished with vanilla-bean aioli and shaved fennel. Smoked Cheddar polenta complements sweet-tangy barbecue of Crescent Farm duck. A shaved vegetable salad sports toothpick-thin sticks of asparagus, fennel, radish, pea sprouts and feta cheese.
Is this the Seafood Barge? Yes, you can order a good New England-style clam chowder, but the leek-and-potato soup is even better. The traditional steamed lobster is moist and right. The lobster potpie is an instant classic, coming across like a seafood spin on cassoulet: rich, bracing and wonderful, under a perfectly toasted crust. The raw bar boasts chilled Pipes Cove oysters. But the baked local bivalves show up under an appetizing mantle of salsa verde and Parmesan cheese. There's fried flounder, just in case. And the landlocked can relish juicy roasted chicken with polenta and sauteed mushrooms. Crème fraîche is the foil for a fine almond cake; ice cream for strawberry-rhubarb streusel - the crisp concept elevated.
THE REST
Seafood "bouillabaisse" cuts back on the anise, overcooks shellfish and tosses in pappardelle; wild-mushroom risotto doesn't harmonize; pan-seared tuna turns routine despite soy-ginger broth; Key lime pie needs more tang.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Get on board.
BEST OF LI DINING: You pick the cuisine, our critics pick the best places on Long Island
comments view all »