North Fork restaurants
Grapes and greens aren't all that grow on the North Fork. New restaurants are sprouting, too, even in this sluggish economy. Factor in a few expansions, reinventions, chef changes and old standbys, and the 2009 summer season looks as healthy as ever.
GREENPORT
The ubiquitous Tom Schaudel is at it again with two new Greenport ventures. At D'Latte Too , Schaudel adds his imprimatur to an established gelato-espresso-panino spot. He describes his market-driven evening menu as "abbreviated, light and fun," in the manner of "a mini Italian Autogrill." The menu includes cured meats, cheeses, salads and such pastas as penne with fava beans and asparagus. D'Latte Too is at 218 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-4060.
Dragonfish , another Schaudel production, is a work-in-progress, slated to open around July 4. He envisions it as a "hard-core sushi" spot with a Morimoto-like mind-set. Sushi chef David Huang will fashion raw fish with wine pairings in mind while Schaudel creates such fillips as eel sauce made with cocoa and balsamic vinegar. Dragonfish is at 308 Main St., Greenport (no phone yet).
The former Antares Cafe caught a wave and morphed into the super-casual, moderately priced Antares Tiki . The old crew remains, as does chef-owner Matt Murphy, but since he'll be spending much of his time at Jedediah's in Jamesport, longtime sous chef David Ospina takes over as chef de cuisine. Befitting any self-respecting tiki bar, this one has a thatched roof, frozen drinks and a Caribbean-American menu: miso-marinated steak sandwich, jerk-rubbed fried half chicken and a burger plated on a Frisbee. Antares Tiki is at 2530 Manhasset Ave., Greenport, 631-477-8839.
F.O.B. - Frisky Oyster Bar is an outgrowth of Greenport's popular Frisky Oyster . Slated to open next month in the space that used to be Aldo's (which, sadly, is no more), it will be a seafood and oyster bar casual enough for an after-beach nosh. Have a lobster Cobb salad, some local clams or oysters and a glass of wine or some tap beer. In fine weather, there will be sidewalk dining, too. F.O.B. - Frisky Oyster Bar is at 136 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-6720, thefriskyoyster.com .
With seating for 16, the new Butta' Cakes will soon extend its offerings beyond cupcakes, Danish and bread. Later in the summer, owner Marc LaMaina and pastry chef Christine Thompson expect to add a limited breakfast and lunch menu as well as evening fondues and tapas. Butta' Cakes is at 119 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-6666.
The Frisky Oyster is a spirited spot that has become a destination eatery for dishes such as curried lamb wontons with sweet chile sauce; steak tartare; the grilled lobster burrito; Indian-spiced halibut with coconut sticky rice; braised lamb shank with butternut squash ravioli; grilled ribeye steak frites; and the chocolate pot de creme. The Frisky Oyster is at 27 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-4265.
Scrimshaw , perched waterside at Preston's Wharf, offers fine food with a view to match. Highlights include creamy, local seafood chowder; steamed Cantonese-style dumplings; crisp duck confit spring roll; salmon steak with lemon confit; Crescent Farm duck breast with peach sauce; cheesecake; and apple cake. Scrimshaw is at 102 Main St., Greenport, 631-477-8882.
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SOUTHOLD
If all goes as planned, Blue Duck Bakery (a branch of the Southampton original) should have a few tables before July 4. Although the place now sells artisanal breads and pastries, watch for a limited menu of sandwiches and salads later this summer. Blue Duck Bakery is at 56275 Rte. 25, Southold, 631-629-4123.
Meticulous New American cuisine defines North Fork Table & Inn . A sampler: cod-and-potato cakes with truffled tartar sauce; yellowfin tuna tartare with Granny Smith apple-and-yuzu emulsion; butter-poached lobster ; sauteed Peconic Bay scallops; upside-down caramelized apple tart; Comice pear crisp; chocolate-caramel tart. North Fork Table is at 57225 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-0177.
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CUTCHOGUE
Red Rooster Bistro reawakens the dormant Cutchogue site that used to house Farmer Bar Cutchogue BBQ Co. The menu features comfort food that's reasonably priced and much of it is organic, according to chef-owner Nick Nikolov (who also owns Pepi's Cucina di Casa in Southold). The country-cute place has a big rooster sculpture on the lawn, assorted rooster artifacts inside and some attractive rooster-themed crockery. Burgers (beef, bison and turkey) are stuffed (with feta, goat cheese or spinach, among other fillings). No rooster burgers, though. Red Rooster Bistro is at 4805 Depot Lane, Cutchogue, 631-734-8267.
Fisherman's Rest, which was closed the past two years, reopened as The Grille at Fisherman's Rest . The venerable place has a new kitchen, a new crew and, most important, a new chef - Calvin Kerr, who cooked at Gurney's Inn in Montauk and Olivium in Plainview. Kerr is cooking up King Creole clam chowder, bouillabaisse over linguini, steak with cola sauce and the restaurant's signature pizza. Teresa Londono, Kerr's wife, is a pastry chef who bakes the breads and desserts. Much of the produce used is from Wickham's Fruit Farm next door. Fisherman's Rest is at 28350 Main Rd., Cutchogue, 631-765-3474.
MATTITUCK
There's a new chef at Love Lane Kitchen , which serves both lunch and dinner. Ben Warner, who cooked at Flying Fish in Seattle, offers a changing market-driven menu with a different tagine (Moroccan stew) every week. Love Lane Kitchen is at 240 Love Lane, Mattituck, 631-298-8989, lovelanekitchen.com.
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JAMESPORT
Jedediah's new executive chefgeneral manager is Matt Murphy, who also owns Antares Tiki in Greenport and Uncle Buck's on Shelter Island. These days, a more casual vibe and lower prices prevail. Murphy's New American menu includes such dishes as braised veal cheeks as well as stuffed pork loin with wild boar sausage, pears and garlic mashed potatoes. A $45 prix fixe includes four courses with a glass of wine. Jedediah's is at 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631-722-2900.
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SHELTER ISLAND
Uncle Buck's replaces Hungry Goat at the Shelter Island Country Club, a golf course that's open to the public. As the highest point on Shelter Island, the restaurant affords a majestic vista of land and surrounding sea. The place is owned by the peripatetic Matt Murphy of Antares Tiki and Jedediah's, but chef de cuisine Rich Frazer does the cooking. The moderately priced comfort-food menu features Buffalo wings, shrimp dumplings, meat loaf and fried chicken. Thursday nights, the place is the scene of a pig roast. Uncle Buck's is at 26 Sunnyside Ave., Shelter Island Heights, 631-749-0416.
Vine Street Cafe has expanded: It has added a waiting area and opened up the bar section. The New American menu has grown, too, with chef and co-owner Terry Harwood offering raw bar selections as well as several pastas. A kids' menu features oven-fried chicken. Vine Street Cafe is at 41 S. Ferry Rd., Shelter Island, 631-749-3210.
>>More Shelter Island restaurants
NEW SUFFOLK
Tucked away south of Route 25, Legends sets of culinary fireworks. It's really a twofer: the restaurant and the pub, both enjoyable. Consider the tuna napoleon; Cajun-spiced baked clams; red wine-braised short ribs; a local version of cacciucco, the Livornese seafood stew; a riff on pad Thai; and a seafood pot pie. Legends is at 835 First St., New Suffolk, 631-734-5123.
IRISH RESTAURANTS: 8 Great places for corned beef and more. exploreli.com/restaurants
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