review
Where: Lombardi's on the Bay
Lombardi's on the Bay
Quick Summary
This Lombardi's prepares rigatoni with "Mamma's meatballs," and a husky side of potatoes-and-cherry peppers could find work in supporting chicken campagnola. But the eatery's top main courses are an excellent dry-aged strip steak, a porterhouse for two, and lobster.
Photo credit: /Michael E. Ach | Patrons dine at Lombardi's on the Bay in Patchogue. (November 6, 2009)
Galleries
The execution of Louis XVI finishes the haute-French revolution on Long Island. Into the waterside palais, where kitschy images of royals remain in etched glass, comes Lombardi's on the Bay. Exit the king, enter the people - especially on weekends, when you're dining elbow-to-elbow. The restaurant is the steak-and-seafood scion of Mamma Lombardi's of Holbrook and Lombardi's on the Sound in Port Jefferson, two bastions of braciola and Suffolk's royalty of red sauce. The faux-Ionic columns remain, but now they bookend black-and-white photos of vintage Patchogue rather than pastels of l'ancien régime.
THE BEST
For anyone who has wandered in expecting a menu alla pizzaiola and Parmigiana, there's surprise. Yes, this Lombardi's prepares rigatoni with "Mamma's meatballs," and a husky side of potatoes-and-cherry peppers could find work in supporting chicken campagnola. But the Patchogue eatery's top main courses are an excellent dry-aged strip steak, a porterhouse for two, and lobster - which you can order simply steamed or fiercely fra diavolo. At lunch, you may order a lobster roll, too. Dinnertime Berkshire pork chops also are very good: thick, juicy, in a sweet onion-and-balsamic vinegar reduction. The prime rib rivals them. And the land-sea combo of T-bone steak and stuffed shrimp ensures tomorrow's lunch.
Start with a generous spinach salad, which boasts bacon, walnuts, red onions and blue-cheese dressing. The now-obligatory wedge of iceberg competes with it. You can channel Mamma's with an ample octopus salad, fried calamari, stuffed mushrooms, mussels marinara and bracing pasta e fagioli. Lobster bisque, flavorful and with floating pieces of sweet shellfish, satisfies as an on-the-bay alternative. Back up any entree with escarole-and-beans, garlic mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, sauteed onions. Creamy cheesecake is New York-style; chocolate layer cake, Everest variety.
THE REST
Penne primavera shows up underseasoned; Sicilian-accented grilled swordfish and clams oreganata, both overdone; oysters Rockefeller, heavily sauced.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Let them eat cannoli.
Lombardi's on the Bay is located at 600 S. Ocean Ave., Patchogue, 631-654-8970, lombardisonthebay.com
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