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New restaurant reviews
In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick awarded a rare 3 stars to Barrique Kitchen & Wine Bar in Babylon. “Chef Pierre Rouget (who owned Emerson’s) turns out gently priced small plates meant for sharing” and a “thoughtfully conceived wine list featuring 30 selections by the 3- or 6-ounce glass.”
Long Beach’s Atlantica on the Ocean didn’t fare so well; Peter Gianotti gave it 1 star, writing that “chef Todd Jacobs’ early-on food, which, while occasionally good, is about what you'd expect at a very showy catered affair.”
Barrique Kitchen & Wine Bar in Babylon. (Newsday photo / Uli Seit)
Tags: Barrique, wine bar, Babylon, Atlantica, Long Beach, Todd Jacobs
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Open in Syosset: Kado
Add Kado to the mix of “modern Asian” restaurants proliferating on Long Island. The new Syosset place, tucked into a strip mall near the LIRR station, is equipped with the requisite sushi bar and features such diverse Asian kitchen items as Thai red curry, wok glazed ginger shrimp and crispy red snapper.
The place has a dark, burnished look with comfortable black booths, where friends and I went to fulfill a sushi craving. While the fish on my sushi-sashimi plate was perfectly fresh, both fish and rice were a bit too cold. Also, the filling of my compadre's warm sweet potato roll was heavy when it should have been light and creamy.OK for everyday, but not quite the high we were looking for.
Kado is under the same ownership as the more traditional Japanese restaurant, Sumou, in East Patchogue.
Kado is at 117-119 Jackson Ave., Syosset; 516-677-9888/9188, kadony.com
Photo/Joan Reminick
Tags: Kado, sushi, Syosset, Sumou, East Patchotue
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Gone cold in Cold Spring Harbor: Charlotte's Bistro
Charlotte’s Bistro in Cold Spring Harbor is gone.
This was a sunny, pretty spot where French doors were thrown open to the street in fine weather. The menu of American and Asian “small bites” garnered two stars from Newsday’s Peter Gianotti, who especially liked the “tasting trios” at dinnertime.
The vacated space, which was home to Bedlam Street and, before that, Wyland’s Country Kitchen, leaves a void in the quaint village.What kind of restaurant do you think stands the highest chance of survival, given today’s economy and the local demographic? Feel free to post your ideas.
Tags: Charlotte's Bistro, Cold Spring Harbor, Wyland's Country Kitchen, Bedlam Street
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Southold: Seafood Barge drifts into the past
The last supper at the Seafood Barge will be served on Sunday, Nov. 29. Dick Erlich, who has owned and operated the restaurant since 1993, said that the property’s landlord, Port of Egypt Marine, had decided to take over operations with a new concept.
Erlich retains ownership of the name, and he plans to reopen in another location. “Since we’ve let it be known that we’ll be closing,” he said, “I’ve received so many sincere expressions of regret and support. I would really like to continue, for the customers and for the staff.” Updates, he said, would be posted on the restaurant’s Web site, seafoodbarge.com.
Executive chef Noah Schwartz, who earned 2½ very enthusiastic stars this summer from Newsday’s Peter Gianotti, plans to open his own restaurant, specializing in local seafood, in the Greenport area in the spring.
Seafood Barge restaurant (File Photo, 2009 / Anthony Barboza)
Tags: Seafood Barge, Southold, Port of Egypt Marine, Noah Schwartz, Dick Erlich
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Woodbury: Major disappointment at Majors Steakhouse
I didn’t drop by Majors for a great steak. This budget-priced steakhouse (with a sister location in East Meadow) is all about affordable goodness, not transcendent greatness. And in fact, these pork chops were very good—thick, juicy and flavorful. Nothing else about my meal even approached fair.
The table was set with a steak knife lightly glazed with crud. An iceberg wedge topped with crumbled blue cheese sat atop tomatoes drenched in an oily vinaigrette. About halfway through my salad, the pork chops showed up. The applesauce that accompanied them was gluey and overly spiced; the sauerkraut far too acidic. (And speaking of sauerkraut, what happened to the free sauerkraut and pickles that used to grace every table?)
Service was friendly, but clueless. After I ordered the iceberg wedge with tomato vinaigrette and crumbled blue cheese, my waiter asked me what type of dressing I would like and would I like crumbled blue cheese. And after I finished ordering, he asked if I would like more time with the menu. He returned to inquire how I was doing with my pork chops when it was clear that I had not yet touched them.
It all felt like no one was minding the store. I’m hoping I hit Majors on an off night.
Majors Steakhouse is at 8289 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-7300.
Pork chops, accompanied by sauerkraut and applesauce, at Majors Steakhouse in Woodbury. (Newsday Photo, 2009 / Erica Marcus)
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Huntington: Dueling brunches @ Porto Vivo
Porto Vivo, Huntington's new hot spot, offers two $25.95 brunches on Sunday, a traditional one and a "light and healthy" alternative.
This follows the decision to have a $25 fixed-price "wine experience" dinner available on Mondays.
The high-profile eatery has comparatively moderate prices for many dishes. The traditional brunch includes a mimosa or vanilla-mango smoothie; choice of oatmeal, salad, clam chowder or fried calamari; and either eggs Benedict, French toast made with brioche bread, a cheese-prosciutto-tomato-mushroom frittata, cannelloni or a grilled chicken panino.
The lighter begins with the same drinks, then goes on to choices among a yogurt parfait, fruit salad, roasted beet-and-ricotta salata course, chilled cucumber-and-yogurt soup, followed by either a vegetable omelet, Caesar's salad with chicken, ricotta pancakes, seared tuna Nicoise salad, or whole-wheat penne with grilled vegetables and ricotta salata.
Brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Porto Vivo is at 7 Gerard St., Huntington; 631-385-8486.
Dessert comes to this table at the Porto Vivo restaurant in Huntington. (Bill Davis, 2009)
Tags: Porto Vivo, Huntington, brunch
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Peconic Bay scallops have arrived
Monday was the first day of the Peconic Bay scallop season and, according to Roger Tollefson, president of the New York Seafood Council, all signs point to scallop abundance.
Tollefson said that this year might well equal 1994’s banner year when 350,000 pounds of scallop meat were harvested. (Since 1985, recurrent brown tide has severely diminished Long Island’s scallop fishery; at one time, these waters supplied a third of the country’s scallops.)
At Stone Creek Inn in East Quogue, Christian Mir is serving the local scallops, sauteed in the Provençale style with olive oil, roasted tomatoes, garlic, deglazed with butter and Pastis, and finished with parsley and chives.
Other restaurants that now have Peconic Bay scallops on the menu include A Mano in Mattituck, Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville, Coach Grill in Oyster Bay, CoolFish in Syosset, Hudson's Mill in Massapequa, Jolly Fisherman in Roslyn, The Lake House in Bay Shore, Nautilus Cafe in Freeport and The Seafood Barge in Southold.
If you want to cook them yourself, most good local seafood markets will be stocking them as well. A sampling: Alice’s Fish Market in Greenport, Artie’s South Shore Fish in Island Park, Braun Seafood in Cutchogue, Christina’s Epicure in East Norwich, Cor-J in Hampton Bays and Westhampton Beach, Dean’s Seafood in Bay Shore.
Peconic Bay scallops at Alice's Fish Market in Greenport. (Newsday Photo, 2002 / Bill Davis)
Tags: Peconic Bay Scallops
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For kids only: Eat your age in Bridgehampton
Thinking of taking the kids for a Sunday drive to the Hamptons? You’ll want to know that Almond in Bridgehampton (serving chef Jason Weiner's French-influenced menu) is running a new fall special: Kids eat their age.
This means that a youngster under 12 can eat anything on the menu for the total price of his or her age — a 4-year old eats for $4, a 7-year old for $7, and, well, you get the idea.
The restaurant also has new fall hours: Thursday to Tuesday; closed on Wednesday.
Almond is at 1970 Montauk Hwy., Bridgehampton, 631-537-8885, almondrestaurant.comAlmond in Bridgehampton (File Photo, 2004 / Doug Kuntz)
Tags: Bridgehampton, Almond, Jason Weiner, kids deal
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All-star chef from East Patchogue
Elmer Rubio has gone from dishwasher to chef-owner of Chachama Grill in East Patchogue. Erica Marcus writes about his culinary rise in today's Food section and here, online.
Elmer Rubio, chef-owner of Chachama Grill in East Patchogue cooks in the restaurant kitchen. (Photo by Michael Nagle, 2009)
Tags: Chachama Grill, Elmer Rubio, East Patchogue
