review
Where: A Mano
A Mano
Quick Summary
Tom Schaudel's version of a Tuscan osteria, A Mano naturally tweaks the traditional. Tasty pizzas, pastas, cured meats, cheeses; Berkshire pork tenderloin with white beans ragu and broccoli rabe, grilled diver scallops with lemon-artichoke risotto; a delectable almond-olive oil cake, and "il sacchetto di cioccolato," or the restless chef's trademark chocolate bag.
Photo credit: Newsday Photo / Robert Mecea | This is the linguine with clams, pancetta and chillies dish seen on a table in the A Mano restaurant in Mattituck.
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Restless restaurateur Tom Schaudel takes a leisurely passagiatta at A Mano. The latest recipe: uncomplicated food, easygoing wine, affordable prices - the osteria theme localized. This popular, sun-hued joint marks a style shift for the perpetual-motion, risk-taking, hands-on Schaudel. His current portfolio features cornerstone CoolFish in Syosset and three-star Jedediah's at the handsomely restored Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport. Over the years, Schaudel has juiced up local dining with sharp, contemporary spots, among them the departed Lemongrass in Roslyn, 107 Forest Ave. in Locust Valley and PassionFish in Woodbury. Time for a little break in the action.
THE BEST
Ricotta-stuffed, fried zucchini flowers deliver a delectable mouthful of the season. And the kitchen turns very homey with "slowly simmered meatballs" with ricotta in tomato-basil sauce. Satur Farm beets star in the roasted golden-beet salad, accented with slowly roasted fennel and Catapano Farm goat cheese. It's equaled by a refreshing salad of watermelon and roasted corn. Airy, house-made ricotta gnocchi with corn, fava beans, tomatoes and mushrooms allow the frill of white truffle oil. The house lasagna kicks in with sausage spiciness, less heft and is worth sampling - but be warned: They don't do half-portions. Local flounder gets a professional saute, with capers and concentrated "8 hour tomatoes." Berkshire Farms pork tenderloin: boosted by a pancetta-and white-bean ragu. Nutty Sardinian cheese drizzled with honey and paired with ripe figs is a molto finale. The obligatory dessert for Schaudel vets, the "chocolate bag" of ice cream and excess, arrives as il sacchetto di cioccolato. It's still fun. The bittersweet chocolate terrine comes close.
THE REST
Standard, seared yellowfin tuna despite a scoop of caponata; dull crab cake, even with a tonnato touch; over-orchestrated pasta carbonara; pasty risotto undermining grilled diver scallops; limp peach crostata, so-so cheesecake; so-what butterscotch-banana pudding.
THE BOTTOM LINE
A good summer vacation.
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