They come for the quaint shops, low-key beaches and gorgeous views of Gardiners Bay. Each summer, thousands of tourists flock to Shelter Island, situated between Long Island's twin forks, many arriving by ferry with their cars.
But for day trippers who want to experience the island's natural beauty without waiting at one of the ferry terminals in a long line of traffic, there is another way. Bike it.
"It's just a nice way to spend the day, whether you do all of it or part of it," said George Waldbusser, who has organized an annual ride around the island since 1981 and leads the informal group Bike Around Long Island.
The island's roads are fairly flat, winding past the sprawling vacation homes of the wealthy, pockets of oak and beech woodland and swaths of pebble-strewn beaches.
Although there are no prolonged climbs, a handful of steep sections of terrain make for a moderately difficult ride. The hills can be eliminated from the route by taking a variety of short cuts.
Waldbusser recommended going on some training rides before hitting up Shelter Island.
"You don't want it to be the first ride of the season," he said. "You want to go out and enjoy the day. You don't want it to be painful."
Shelter Island is accessible by ferry from two points: Sag Harbor and Greenport. From Greenport, the ferry trip, which costs $5 roundtrip including bike, is brief, only about 10 minutes. There are two lots at the terminal where parking is free. The ferries run every 15 minutes between 7:30 a.m. and 10:30 p.m. If you miss the ferry, kill a few minutes at the East End Seaport Maritime Museum.
The ferry landing on the south end has no amenities and no public restroom. It is about three miles from town. At the north end, bathrooms are at the ferry landing and a Mobil station in Deering Harbor.
I chose to start my adventure from Greenport because the ferry lands at the north end near the island's commercial hub. If you don't have a bike but want to rent one, Piccozzi's Bike Shop, behind the Mobil station, is about a five-minute walk from the terminal. (Bear left where Route 114 forks.) The shop rents bikes for the hour ($10-15), half day ($15-20) and full day ($20-25). Prices vary depending on the kind of bike, and helmets are available.
The shop is the only place to get air for tires or help fixing mechanical problems, such as loose brakes or skipping derailleurs.
If you forgot water or lunch, stock up at the Island Food Centre, which has bike racks, across the street from the gas station . There are several eateries along St. Marys Road and South Ferry Road, but with all the sightseeing to do, it might be a while before you reach them. The market is also a hangout for cyclists and a good place to ask for route suggestions.
Another favorite watering hole for cyclists is Planet Bliss, which serves organic cuisine, on Route 114 at Duvall Avenue. It is a more convenient lunch stop if coming from the south ferry terminal.
I ran into some difficulty navigating Shelter Island's intricate network of streets as a result of two of my personality traits: I hate relying on maps and will only ask for directions as an absolute last resort. After my first mistake -- missing a major turnoff to reach big Ram Island -- I was checking my map often, which required frequent stops.
Print out your route before leaving home and tape it to your handlebars. The island not only has many streets, but they commonly have more than one name.
Ambitious riders can combine the two. Eliminate the Rams Island section to avoid two of the larger hills on the route. Families with young cyclists can opt for an out-and-back trip to play miniature golf course, kayak in Coecles Harbor or seashell hunting on any one of the island's several public beaches.
Two suggested routes:
Big Loop
From the north ferry slip, bear left on Route 114. Coast downhill into Deering Harbor. Stop to fuel up on sandwiches at the Island Market or one of the nearby restaurants.If you're not squeamish about leaving your bike unattended, eat lunch on the dock behind the Island Market and watch the boats pull in and out of the harbor.
Continue on Route 114. Turn left on Winthrop Road, which parallels the coastline and will take you through a mix of salt marsh and harbor views. Turn left on Dinah Rock Road, which becomes Gardiners Bay Drive. Here the landscape takes on a more rural feels as you pass widely spaced houses.
