Pine Barrens, New York

Farm Country Kitchen

Had I not learned about Farm Country Kitchen from a sharp-eyed informant, I could easily have driven past it. Even so, the well-hidden takeout-eat-in shop, identifiable only by a blackboard near the road was challenge enough to find. What looked like a private home was actually the cafe, accessible by a winding path.

"People like the hunt," said owner Tom Carson, who used to own Harbor Gates in Port Jefferson. Lunch, the only meal, is served with disposable containers and flatware. The place does a huge takeout business and caters, too. Everything on the daily-changing menu is house-made.

It was hard to say which was better, the verdant spinach bisque or the smoky black lentil and bacon soup. A sprightly salad topped with three small crab cakes featured fresh field greens, mangoes, cucumbers, cabbage, carrots, endive and grilled Vidalia onions in a basil vinaigrette. I was impressed with the interplay of flavors and textures in a wrap that enfolded spicy Cajun chicken, cilantro pesto, Jack cheese, black beans and papaya.

Come summer, Carson features table service on a dining porch that overlooks the Peconic River. So romantic.

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Major Credit Cards Accepted

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