The East End's catch of seafood restaurants is too big and not big enough: plenty of eateries, but not exactly full of stars. Here are four specialists to satisfy this season's appetite:
Clam Bar at Napeague
13595 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; 631-267-6348
COST $-$$
This is about as casual as it gets: Go to the counter, place your order, decide whether to wait for a seat or be content with takeout. The lobster salad is the primary attraction; the lobster roll, its popular presentation. The busy eatery prepares fried fish, whole lobsters, steamers - it's August, right?
The Plaza Cafe
61 Hill St., Southampton; 631-283-9323
COST $$$
Fin for fin, the best fish house on the East End, The Plaza Cafe offers a serene dining room and energetic cooking. The menu changes regularly. Standouts include: lobster-and-shrimp shepherd's pie, sauteed local striped bass with mango salsa; the grilled Montauk swordfish "chop"; and lobster-and-corn chowder.
The Seafood Barge
62980 Main Rd., Southold; 631-765-3010
COST $$-$$$
Veterans will remember the sign advertising Armando's, with the colorful owner holding a Jules Verne-variety lobster. Over the years, the place has gotten more refined. In its current life, you'll find baked oysters with pesto, clam chowders New England and Manhattan, fried seafood, lobster rolls, pan-roasted Scottish salmon.
Trata
1020 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill; 631-726-6200
COST $$$
Whole, grilled fish, sold by the pound, is the lure at Trata, the Hamptonian offspring of the Manhattan restaurant. Red fagri, a Greek specialty; snapper, arctic char, sea bass and langoustines are first-rate. Likewise, appetizing Greek spreads of roe and eggplant, grilled octopus, spinach-and-feta filled saganaki, and lamb chops.
