Our favorite neighborhood spots

BY JOAN REMINICK
Newsday Dining Critic

June 2, 2006

By definition, a day of fun on Long Island includes good eating. At the following restaurants, you'll find spirited fare and a tab of less than $30 a person. It's always a good idea to call for hours and, when possible, make reservations.

NASSAU COUNTY

AZER BAIJAN, 1610 Old Country Rd., Westbury, 516-228-0001. The food of Azer Baijan, rife with Turkish, Persian and Mediterranean influences, is as reassuring as it is invigorating, especially the fluffy tabbouleh with cherry syrup and bits of pomegranate.

B.D. COOL'S FISH SHACK, 1391/2 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-868-9700. Chefs Brian La Rose and David Bryer work wonders in an open kitchen, sending out such intriguing specialties as a bowl of clams, chorizo, corn, tomatoes and basil called "clam love."

BIG DADDY'S, 1 Park Lane, Massapequa Park, 516-799-8877. Folks at this rip-roaring favorite know how to play with smoke and fire. Plates of Cajun, Southern and barbecue are enormous; most leave bearing doggie bags.

GRAFFITI, 1326 Peninsula Blvd., Hewlett, 516-791-2959; 8285 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-1340. From sprightly salads to hefty sandwiches to varied entrees, this American bistro duet offers well-executed something-for-everyone menus.

KIRAN PALACE, 67-71E Old Country Rd., Delco Plaza, Hicksville, 516-932-0918. At this strip mall Indian favorite, the curries are vibrant, breads exceptional. It's worth a visit for the onion kulcha alone.

L.L. DENT, 221 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-742-0940. From the fried catfish and barbecued brisket to the warm hospitality of the mother-daughter owners, this strip mall restaurant is all about Southern comfort.

MIM'S, 33 Berry Hill Rd., Syosset, 516-364-2144 and 235 Roslyn Rd., Roslyn Heights, 516-625- 7305. The all-encompassing New American menus at this Nassau duo run the gamut from a simple burger to knockout sushi rice-crusted salmon.

MOTHER KELLY'S, 490 Chestnut St., Cedarhurst, 516-295-5421. Portions are gargantuan at this Five Towns standby for pizza, pasta and more.

OLIVER BON DINANT, 82 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-747-6337. Oliver Leung, who cooked at Rene Pujol in Manhattan, works in the classic French tradition (steak au poivre, mousse au chocolat) at his welcoming neighborhood bistro.

THE ORIENT, 623 Hicksville Rd., Bethpage, 516- 822-1010. It's an ongoing banquet for food-savvy Asian-Americans and others, who converge for weekend dim sum and authentic Cantonese, Sichuan and Hunan dishes.

THE PIT STOP, 1706 Sunrise Hwy., Merrick, 516- 223-7799. Not just another fast-food joint, this is where to go for fine made-to-order soups, salads, entrees and wraps, such as shrimp with mango salsa and black beans.

POLLOS EL PAISA, 989 Old Country Rd., Westbury, 516-338-5858. Juicy burnished rotisserie chicken isn't the only draw at this informal Colombian restaurant with a menu worth navigating.

ROYAL TANGRA MASALA, 2207 Hillside Ave., New Hyde Park, 516-746-4898. Lollipop chicken is one of the Indian-Chinese surprises at a restaurant that doesn't stint on spice.

R.S. JONES, 153 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-378-7177. At this funky, kitschy Western-themed restaurant, the flavorful and freewheeling cuisine ranges from Southwestern to Southern to Cajun to whatever the whim of the kitchen may be.

SARGE'S DELICATESSEN RESTAURANT, 236 W. Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-677- 1900. It's a major mitzvah, this nosh-worthy Jewish deli serving peppery hot pastrami piled high on chewy rye.

THOMAS' HAM AND EGGERY, 325 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-333-3060. When it comes to breakfast, Thomas' rules, with its lush, creamy oatmeal, nutty pecan Belgian waffles, house-made chicken sausages and more.

TINY THAI, 187 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-694- 3302. The resonant tom kha gai (coconut chicken soup) typifies the fare at this diminutive cafe where flavors are anything but tiny.

TREVI, 3357 Merrick Rd., Wantagh, 516-783-6837. At this trattoria with a wood-burning oven, chef Christopher Vacca produces deliciously smoky roast chicken and real Roman-style bucatini carbonara, made with eggs and pancetta.

UNCLE BACALA'S, 2370 Jericho Tpke., Garden City Park, 516-739-0505. The lure at this seafood-centric hot spot is chef David Ruggerio's bold fare (such as salmon in agro dolce) at reasonable prices.

WEST END CAFE, 187 Glen Cove Rd., Carle Place, 516-294-5608. Tucked away in a nondescript shopping center, this attractive favorite brings in crowds with big colorful salads at lunch and an imaginative bargain-priced sunset prix fixe.

ZUTTO, 324 Great Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-504- 8605. Surroundings are contemporary-chic at this Japanese restaurant offering a few well-executed Korean dishes. Sushi is fresh and imaginative, as are fish-based salads.

WESTERN SUFFOLK COUNTY

ALEXANDROS, 343 Rte. 25A, Miller Place, 631-928- 8989. At this fine Greek restaurant, the grilled calamari glistens with garlic, lemon and olive oil and the grilled lamb chops are top-notch.

ANCIENT GINGER, 556 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-584-8883. This Chinese newcomer boasts some imaginative dishes, such as green prawns, as well as classics such as mo shu chicken, all done with skill.

BLACK FOREST BREW HAUS, 2015 New Hwy., Farmingdale, 631-391-9500. The house-made brews go perfectly with hearty Teutonic dishes such as the "loaded" potato pancakes, a cardiologist's nightmare.

BLISS, 766 Rte. 25A, East Setauket, 631-941- 0430. Chef and tenor Richard Desmond, entertains with arias and an inventive New American menu that includes a "millefeuille" of pasta and savory pot roast with truffle oil.

CHEFS OF NEW YORK, 508 Larkfield Rd., East Northport, 631-368-3156. Low prices and good, simple Italian favorites -- such as spinach pizza and spaghetti with meatballs -- keep this recently refurbished neighborhood spot bustling.

CIRELLA'S AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, 230 Walt Whitman Rd. (Walt Whitman Shopping Center), Huntington Station, 631-350-1229. This surprise within a department store boasts the talented sushi chef Alan Kim, whose raw fish compositions are fresh and delicately wrought. Salads, from the kitchen, are extra-sprightly.

THE COOKE'S IN, 767 New York Ave., Huntington Station, 631-424-2181. Former schoolteacher Juanita Cooke's cheery restaurant is an original that rocks on weekends. The Southern, Caribbean and Italian fares are geared to gratify, from fried chicken to jerk pork to ravioli pie.

EMILIO'S, 2201 Jericho Tpke., Commack, 631- 462-6256. If you snag a table, you may need earplugs as well as knife and fork to enjoy chef owner Emilio Branchinelli's inspired pizzas and hearty house-made pastas.

FONDA COYOACAN, 1026 New York Ave., Huntington Station, 631-547-7259. This is the Mexican food of the Mexican people, served at a few tables in the rear of a grocery store. Chef co-owner Elvia Cardenas makes a sensational quesadilla filled with tinga (chicken stew), among other specialties.

HOG HOUSE BARBECUE, 200 W. Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station, 631-271-4200. House-smoked pastrami, chef-made sausages and some palate-tingling pulled pork are some of the treats at this too-small barbecue joint that really cooks.

LAZY CLAM, 101 E. Main St., Smithtown, 631- 360-9846. Tom Mulzoff changes the blackboard menu nightly at this offbeat little fish house, guided by the market and personal whim, with results such as a compelling catfish stuffed with rice, crawfish and alligator meat.

LUCY'S, 135 Deer Park Ave., Babylon, 631-669- 1640. The secret is out about this cozy little hideaway. By day, it's a cafe and cappuccino bar serving imaginative sandwiches, soups and salads; the evening small plate menu changes regularly, driven by season and market.

KITCHEN A BISTRO, 532 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-862-0151. You must reserve months ahead for the weekend prix-fixe dinner at chef Eric Lo Mando's moderately priced, immoderately pleasurable BYO bistro. At lunch and on week nights, however, it's first come, first served for dishes such as sake-stewed short ribs.

LAWAN, 13 E. Main St., Patchogue, 631-687-1313. The Thai food at this pretty and contemporary dining room stars flavors both multilayered and subtle.

LITTLE CABOOSE, 66 Larkfield Rd., East Northport, 631-262-9704. At this diminutive and friendly spot, Dina Ribas serves a roster of supremely satisfying El Salvadoran dishes, with a smattering of Mexican offerings. Pupusas and roast chicken tamales are standouts.

MAIN STREET CAFE, 47 Main St., Northport, 631- 754-5533. Sensational burgers, thick and juicy, almost steal the spotlight at this small, snug and satisfying neighborhood pub near the harbor.

OAXACA, 385 New York Ave., Huntington, 631- 547-1232. Alex and Maria Gonzalez serve authentic homestyle Mexican food, a rarity in this part of the world. Have the posole (pork and corn soup-stew) and the chicken with green sauce.

PINE AIRE FISH & DELI, 149 Pine Aire Dr., Bay Shore, 631-231-4467. The seafood of El Salvador gets star treatment at this bright, friendly restaurant attached to a fish market. Eat your way through a menu that includes tender grilled calamari and sensational Salvadoran-style shrimp scampi.

SIL LA JOUNG, 1087 Jericho Tpke., Commack, 631- 543-6790. This Korean restaurant does justice to an underrepresented, multifaceted cuisine. Authenticity, freshness and clarity of flavor define the san chae bibim pan, cold rice and vegetables with spicy sauce.

SMOKIN' AL'S FAMOUS BBQ JOINT, 19 W. Main St., Bay Shore, 631-206-3000. Al Horowitz's pig-themed palace does wonders with pork and more. You may have to wait for a table, but the pig-out will be worth it.

THAI ANGEL, 1812 Veterans Hwy., Islandia, 631- 348-2555. Hidden in an Islandia shopping center is this authentic Thai restaurant serving such dishes as aromatic orange duck with roasted orange peel, ginger and cashews.

EAST END

ALMONDITO, 290 Montauk Hwy., East Hampton, 631-329-6700. A personable host and chic decor add to the allure of chef Jason Weiner's spirited Mexican cookery, exemplified by his creamy rock shrimp and corn tamales and a tamarind-glazed pork shank.

BIRD ON A ROOF, 47 S. Elmwood Ave., Montauk, 631-668-5833. A favorite of knowing locals and vacationers, this seasonal Montauk standby is both a beach-wear boutique and a quaint breakfast and lunch cafe. Dine indoors or on the patio outdoors on omelets, pancakes and sandwiches.

ESTIA'S LITTLE KITCHEN, Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Sag Harbor, 631-725-1045. Local bounty is the basis of breakfast, lunch and dinner at chef owner Colin Ambrose's charming little cottage. Blueberry pancakes, omelets and just-caught fish highlight the simple American menu.

FARMER BAR-CUTCHOGUE BARBECUE CO., 4805 Depot Lane, Cutchogue, 631-734-5410. Everything smokes at this friendly barbecue restaurant in a historic old North Fork house where the pulled pork, barbecued ribs, sliced brisket and fried pork chop rock.

FOODY'S, 760 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 631- 726-FOOD. The scent of the cherrywood-burning oven fills the air of this informal Italian eatery hidden in a Water Mill shopping center. Chef-owner Bryan Futerman gets creative with such items as a spicy-cool watermelon and red pepper gazpacho. His St. Louis ribs are smoky, his pizza a surefire hit.

HAMPTON CHUTNEY CO., Amagansett Square, Main Street, Amagansett, 631-267-3131. The big lacy South Indian rice crepes called dosas are delectable, whether filled with classic potato masala mixture or a more nontraditional combo of butternut squash, portabellos, arugula and Jack cheese. (The store has two Manhattan branches).

LA FONDITA, 74 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett, 631- 267-8800. Open from May through October, this order-at-the-counter takeout, with picnic tables and counter seats, serves some of the best and most authentic Mexican food in the area, such as carne asada in a soft corn taco with green chile salsa.

MATSULIN, 131 W. Montauk Hwy., Hampton Bays, 631-728-8838. This welcoming pan Asian restaurant does equally well with the cuisines of China, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia, serving everything from roti canai to Saigon pork chops.

MICHAEL'S AT MAIDSTONE BEACH, 28 Maidstone Park Rd., East Hampton, 631-324-0725. You'll find value and some of the best prix-fixe deals in the area at this very un-Hamptons Victorian house whose duck with "secret" Chinese sauce is no secret.

ROWDY HALL, 10 Main St., East Hampton, 631- 324-8555. This popular spot at the end of an alley offers straightforward, reasonably priced English pub and French bistro fare. Two-fisted burgers and fish and chips served in a newspaper jacket are signature items.

SILVER'S, 15 Main St., Southampton, 631-283- 6443. Lunch is the only meal served at this Southampton institution in an old ice cream parlor, and chef-owner Garrett Wellins does credit to the meal. The BLT is perfection, as are the baked crab cakes with Thai aioli.

TWEED'S RESTAURANT AND BUFFALO BAR, 17 Main St., Riverhead, 631-208-3151. Bison in all its permutations is the major attraction at this handsome Victorian whose owner also has a nearby bison farm.

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