Montauk, New York

Aqua East

Aqua East turns on the off-season in Montauk.

Beaches are cool and crowds thin, but many restaurants stay open. And, on the cusp of autumn, this is the one to visit.

It's situated at the address long-occupied by Caswells and for one summer by Acqua Terre. Aqua East does more than toy with the name and tweak the decor.

Executive chef Chris Kozlowski previously prepared fine fare at Montauk's Breakwater Cafe. He sends out a lively mix of updated and traditional cuisine at land's end, where the best Italian food used to be pizza.

The dining room finds the middle ground between refined and rustic, and gives off a sunny glow. There's some artwork evoking Venice, which is as close as you get to a water view.

A refreshing lobster salad with tomato vinaigrette and baby greens arrives in a stemmed glass and provides a polished alternative to all those lobster rolls of the past three months. Baked clams, local and sweet, finished with light bread crumbs and butter, are delectable rebukes to every singed and leaden version you've eaten this year. Broiled calamari also benefits from butter and fluffy bread crumbs, which add a mellow accent rather than a hard sealant.

Pan-seared cubes of tuna with garbanzo panelli take savory turns with three dipping sauces: herbaceous garlic mayo, pimiento-spiked rouille, horseradish-sparked brown butter. Compared with these openers, the tomato-tinted pasta e fagioli and the steamed mussels are routine.

Kozlowski fashions a full-flavored rendition of mozzarella in carrozza, the deep-fried cheese sandwich that could double as an entree. His mozzarella Caprese, with fresh cheese and in-season tomatoes, basil and a balsamic vinaigrette, also is much better than most.

Leading the pastas, bucatini Bolognese offers a lush meat sauce; and the rigatoni Romano finds its personality with light cream and ricotta salata. Spaghetti marinara: the usual, but satisfying. Risotto with vegetables and a generous grating of Parmesan cheese has ideal texture and should prepare you for autumn.

And, either as your main course or a dish to be shared by the table, be sure to sample the excellent polenta, spread on a wooden board, spurred by Parmesan and sweet butter, topped with either a meat or vegetable ragout.

A blood-orange glaze gives the thick, juicy, grilled veal chop the surname Siracusa. Tender pork chops become "alla Aqua" pan-fried and showered with sweet peppers and onions. Chicken pizzaiola stars a standard, sauteed breast, but the red sauce is enlivened by olives and oregano; moist roasted chicken has escarole, white beans and sweet sausage for company. Beef-red tuna richly turns alla Siciliana via a sweet-sour sauce with onions, raisins and pine nuts; and scarlet-sauced zuppa di pesce avoids overcooking.

The "Aqua fruit tree," with chocolate-covered fruits and macaroons in its branches, looks sharp, but the branches can have dry offerings. Apple cake is equally arid. Instead, try flourless chocolate cake and the Ciao Bella sorbets.

Or, consider the playful L&B Spumoni Gardens spumoni, three scoops of nostalgia "straight from Brooklyn." Worth the ride, anytime.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 9/18/05.

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