Montauk, New York

The Lakeside

Patrons enjoy the water views as well as the seafood on the back deck of The Lakeside in Montauk.(Newsday Photo/Bill Davis)

One sweltering August afternoon, I found a shaded table, a cool drink and a light, but satisfying lunch at The Lakeside.

Situated at the edge of Lake Montauk, the place is equipped with a mini-beach and outdoor showers, inviting visitors to kick back. You can come around sunset and watch the lazy Margaritaville ambience morph into a lounge-club scene at night.

I have yet to find a better Ipswich clam sandwich than what I had here -- fat and briny bellies flash-fried to a smoky, whisper-light crisp. An exemplary lobster roll (lots of meat, just enough dill and mayo) came on a proper butter-grilled hot dog bun. I liked the juicy grilled chicken sandwich topped with a tropical avocado and mango salsa, not the ordinary fries sharing the plate. But a mesclun salad transcended the everyday, thanks to a topping of grilled shrimp that tasted of the open fire.

The Lakeside tastes like summer.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 9/21/05.

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