Newsday.com: Fine dining and kid-friendly

Fine dining and kid-friendly

BY PETER M. GIANOTTI
peter.gianotti@newsday.com

Children are the true litmus test for a restaurant. Nothing embodies an upscale eatery's attitude more than how the place treats diners who bring their kids.

My experiences have included both the blanched expression and subsequent deep exile to the far reaches of one Michelin three-star shrine; to visiting another equally honored spot where, since soft drinks weren't available, the chef quickly went to his garden, returned with oranges, and squeezed juice for my girls.

On Long Island, you find variations on these themes. But, generally, many high-end restaurants do welcome children who've stopped using teething rings and diapers. The best also remain unfazed by either a mini-tantrum or the need to have milk warmed.

Here are some white tablecloth restaurants that are mature enough for younger customers.

BENNY'S. One of the best Italian restaurants on Long Island also is among the warmest, regardless of age. All the pastas are outstanding, as are the seafood choices, classic steak Diane and the sweets. 199 Post Ave., Westbury, 516-997-8111.

BESITO. A Mexican celebration, with very good food and some patience. Nibble on ceviche and battle with the kids over the tableside-made guacamole. And hold out for the churros. 1516 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-484-3001. There's a smaller branch in Huntington at 402 New York Ave., 631-549-0100.

CASA RUSTICA. Genial, accommodating, invariably first-rate, Casa Rustica respects its customers, in service and in the kitchen. Whether you're here for a small party, a night out or a brisk lunch, this veteran is easily recommended. Some favorite dishes include whole fish cooked in a salt crust; all pastas; chicken scarpariello. 175 W. Main St., Smithtown, 631-265-9265.

JEDEDIAH'S. In a restored 19th-century inn, this lively new American restaurant thrives. Excellent fare with service to match. Look for butter-poached lobster, flourless chocolate cake and the blueberry bread pudding. 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631-722-2900.

LOUIS XVI. The finest traditional French restaurant in Nassau and Suffolk, this opulent place is confident and caring enough to be at ease with all ages. The tasting menu is grand, as are the a la carte choices. And there's a water view, too, in case a change of scenery is absolutely necessary. Great service. 600 S. Ocean Ave., Patchogue, 631-654-8970.

THE MANSION AT THE WOODLANDS. Here's a mansion, all right, now on the Town of Oyster Bay Golf Course. There's plenty of room, lots of fine food, from lobster risotto and grilled sirloin to almond-olive oil cake. 1 Southwoods Rd., Woodbury, 516-921-5707.

STRESA and STRESA EAST. Two four-star restaurants with seamless service, an inviting manner, and exceptional Italian and continental food. Pastas and risotti are especially recommended. Likewise, seafood and steaks. Stresa is at 1524 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516-365-6956; Stresa East at 7940 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-364-1565.

THOM THOM. Asian-style food prepared with flair highlights this colorful restaurant. Visit on the early side for less noise. Commendable fare includes the "kung pow" calamari, sushi rolls, crab cakes, ribs, steaks. 3340 Park Ave., Wantagh, 516-221-8022.