Autumn in the Hamptons

A harvest of reasons to fall for the East End

BY BETH DECARBO
Special to Newsday

September 16, 2007

That whooshing noise you hear is a collective sigh of relief coming from the Hamptons. At last, the summer folk, day trippers and tourists tossed back a final mojito before hopping the Hampton Jitney for the season's final trip west.

It must be how the staff at a backwoods Holiday Inn feels after a crowd of rowdy Legionnaires checks out of town.

"It's like night and day after Labor Day," says Barbara Dutton, owner of C & W Mercantile in Bridgehampton. "It's like somebody turned the water off."

More than just the leaves change when fall comes to the Hamptons. The locals emerge from their homes, blinking at the sunlight, to reclaim their beaches, restaurants and gourmet food shops featuring artisanal cheeses and imported foie gras. Indeed, the crowds are thinner, the people friendlier. Stores slash prices on summer clothing. Local farm stands and vineyards celebrate a bountiful harvest. Best yet, the traffic goes from being oppressive to merely insufferable.

And then there's the ocean. The air may be crisp, but the water is warm, notes Sara Nightingale, owner of a contemporary art gallery in Water Mill that bears her name.

"You really can't start swimming here until mid-July," she says. But once the waves warm up, "you can swim through October."

Fall is a beautiful time all across Long Island, of course, but residents here can drive east an hour or so and escape to an area loaded with upscale shopping, fine dining and family activities even Mom and Dad will enjoy.

Before you go, here are a few tips. First, come prepared. Joellin Comerford, who lives in Greenwich Village and summers in East Hampton, advises guests to bring their own bottled water, snacks and sunscreen. You'll save a little money and not waste precious time standing on line at the neighborhood deli. "Be organized, so you don't have to go out and get stuff," she says.

And fill up before you leave home. Prices at a couple of gas stations on the South Fork charge a full 20 cents more for a gallon of gas than, say, a Nassau County station charges.

Second, bring a sweater. Even on a delicious Indian summer day, there's a chill in the air once the sun sets, says Michael Pesce, who, along with his wife, Brenda, has a house in Garden City and a summer home in Sag Harbor.

Finally, plot your driving route. (You're going to congratulate yourself for reading to the end of this introduction.) On busy fall weekends, Sunrise Highway slows to a creep when traffic merges onto Montauk Highway just outside of Southampton. Save yourself - and your marriage, if applicable - and exit Sunrise early - Exits 64 and 65 are both good choices - driving south to catch Montauk Highway, then east into Southampton at a 40- to 50-mph clip.

The sooner you get there, the more you can eat, drink and hit the spending limit on your credit card.

But it's more than just shopping that brings people to the South Fork. Here's a sampling of places and activities to enjoy this fall.

Shopping & antiquing

In the fall, villages in the Hamptons have a "small-town Americana" feel, observes Constantine Patsimas, co-owner of Privet Cove on Jobs Lane in Southampton. "A lot of people have sales, especially for clothing, and you can actually find a parking spot. "

Privet Cove features beach-themed furnishings that are both exotic and unique. A large table displays dazzling coral from around the world. Also tucked back on Jobs Lane is Victoria's Mother, a shop with reproductions of Victorian-era accessories and kitschy cards and toys.

For clothes in Southampton, big-name stores such as Ralph Lauren, Chico's, Theory and Saks Fifth Avenue all have retail shops here, but don't overlook smaller boutiques, such as Twist, Intermix and Blue & Cream.

East Hampton is home to super-swanky stores such as Tiffany & Co., Gucci and BCBG Max Azria. Punch sells yummy children's clothing, and Steph's Stuff carries new and vintage toys and gifts, such as Blabla dolls and Ugly Dolls. Also be sure to check out J. Roaman for eclectic home furnishings. "We're all about color. We're the anti-beige," says owner Judy Roaman.

Smaller South Fork villages offer unique shopping, too. Gone Local in Amagansett has gifts and artwork made by East End artists, yet nothing has a "souvenir shop" feel. A mosaic surfboard is particularly arresting. Also in Amagansett is Teelia Peploe, a boutique opened by an Australian designer with unique clothing under her own label. (She also carries biodegradable shoes that, when buried for two months, will completely disintegrate into the earth. )

Seashell items and accessories are ever-popular at C & W Mercantile on Main Street in Bridgehampton. Down the street is Hampton's Hound, which carries its own line of colorful reflective dog collars to keep the pooch safe at night.

For antiques, "the Hamptons are a destination that must be pursued," says Jean Sinenberg, owner of Georgica Creek Antiques in Wainscott. The store specializes in 18th and 19th century antiques, many bought from private homes in the area. Balasses House in Amagansett has antiques and reproductions artfully displayed. The

American Wing in Bridgehampton specializes in vintage rattan, wicker and bamboo furnishings. On our visit, a campy lamp with a base made of Popsicle sticks caught our eye. For a listing of more shops and descriptions, go to antiquehamptons.com.

A list of Hamptons boutiques, shops and antique places.

Wining & dining

Come hungry, is the best advice. Even simple sandwiches taste better in the Hamptons, perhaps because of the abundance of local produce.

For lunch, pick up something fast, but don't pick up fast food. Try Foody's in Water Mill for inspired pizza, soups and sandwiches. Observe the bustling street scene from your sidewalk table at Babette's in East Hampton. Locals love the burgers at The Driver's Seat in Southampton, but those who order the lobster roll won't be disappointed.

For fine dining, try red/bar brasserie in Southampton. Pierre's in Bridgehampton is known for its eclectic menu and good service. Nick and Toni's in East Hampton gets rave reviews for both its creative menu and expansive wine list. For more restaurants and reviews, go to newsday .com/restaurants.

Although the North Fork is best known for wineries, the South Fork has some solid offerings as well. Duck Walk Vineyards in Water Mill makes a number of varieties, including merlot, pinot grigio and chardonnay. There's live music on the veranda every weekend from 1:30 to 5:30 p.m. through October.

Wolffer Estate in nearby Sagaponack is best known as the first Long Island vineyard to offer a $100 bottle of wine. The main building, located on Sagg Road, is a Tuscan-style estate that offers tours and tastings. But for a more relaxed environment, stop by Wolffer's wine stand right on Montauk Highway, where you can bring a picnic and taste winemaker Roman Roth's creations on a patio overlooking the vineyard. Over Columbus Day weekend in October, Wolffer celebrates its Harvest Party, where guests can stomp grapes, see barrel rolling and help name the annual wine queen.

More Hamptons restaurant reviews

Galleries & museums

See great works and pieces by new artists - all without paying an admission fee. South Fork art galleries attract dealers and collectors from across the globe.

This fall, Pamela Williams Gallery in Amagansett plans to feature the works of Scott Kelley in a show called "Pink," because of its emphasis on brightly colored birds. The Crazy Monkey Gallery, also in Amagansett, is an artists' co-op with more traditional works done by local talent. The Sara Nightingale Gallery in Water Mill highlights young artists with bold, fresh ideas. And Mark Borghi Fine Art will feature the works of illustrator-cartoonist R.O. Blechman this fall. Also noteworthy is the Keszler Gallery in Southampton, which had stunning black and white photos on exhibit during our visit.

Two exhibits are on view at local museums. "All the More Real: Portrayals of Intimacy and Empathy" is on display at The Parrish Art Museum in Southampton until Oct. 14. The show contains realist imagery that emphasizes emotional connections. Through November, the Bridge Hampton Historical Society is featuring the works of Charles Addams, the New Yorker cartoonist who created "The Addams Family" characters.

Travel info

• Bridgehampton Historical Society, 2368 Montauk Hwy.; 631-537-1088, hamptons.com/historical society
• Crazy Monkey Gallery, 136 Main St., Amagansett; 631-267-3627
• Keszler Gallery, 45 Main St., Southampton; 631-204-0353, keszlergallery.com
• Mark Borghi Fine Art Inc., 2462 Main St., Bridgehampton; 631-537-7245, borghi.org
• Pamela Williams Gallery Ltd., 167 Main St., Amagansett; 631-267-7817, pamela williamsgallery .com
• The Parrish Art Museum, 25 Jobs Lane, Southampton; 631-283-2118, parrishart.org
• Sara Nightingale Gallery, 688 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill; 631-726-0076, saranightingale .com


More Hamptons museums.

Kids' stuff

Farm stands are abuzz during autumn as workers harvest and sell locally grown apples, squash, gourds, peaches and pumpkins. It's also the time when "U-Pick" signs dot the roadways, and locals set up hay rides and corn mazes to the delight of suburban slickers.

"This is harvest time, so it's really busy. But it's so cool to be out here," says Amy Halsey, owner of The Milk Pail farm stand in Water Mill. Kids can pick their own apples and pumpkins at The Milk Pail orchards through the end of October, Halsey says.

Get lost in Fairview Farm's intricate cornfield maze in Bridgehampton, open through November. And Hank's Pumpkintown in Water Mill is scheduled to open on Saturday and offer pumpkin picking, hay rides, pony rides, roasted corn and other fall favorites.

Some other noteworthy destinations for kids include the Children's Museum of the East End in Bridgehampton, with engaging, interactive displays. Go to cmee.org for a list of fall exhibits and activities. And for a unique experience, take your child to Follow Your Art on Main Street in Southampton and together create a hand-painted ceramic keepsake.

Travel info

• Children's Museum of the East End, 376 Bridgehampton/Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton; 631-537-8250, cmee.org
• Fairview Farm, Horsemill Lane, Bridgehampton; 631-537-6154.
• Follow Your Art, 59 Main St., Southampton; 631-287-6187, fya southampton.com
• Hank's Pumpkintown, Montauk Highway, Water Mill; 631-726-4667; hankspumpkintown.com. (Opens Sept. 22)
• The Milk Pail, Montauk Highway, Water Mill; 631-537-2565, milk-pail.com


Hometown flavors

The best way to get a feel for a place is to mingle with the locals. Street fairs, festivals and other events are the perfect small-town mixers. Here are just a few of the offerings.

Today is the last day of HarborFest 2007, where Sag Harbor celebrates its 300th anniversary with whaleboat races, historic tours, food tastings and a parade. Next Saturday is Southampton's Folk Art and Farm Festival, featuring Revolutionary War re-enactors, historic woodworkers and wool spinners (southamptonhistorical

museum.org). The Long House Reserve (longhouse .com) in East Hampton plans a BasketFest on Sept. 29, when basket weaving will be demonstrated. From Sept. 28 to 30, the Bridge Hampton Historical Society hosts its annual car rally (bridgehamptonrally.org).

Columbus Day weekend is a busy time in Southampton. There's a knitting festival and craft fair hosted by the Southampton Historical Museum (southamptonhistoricalmuseum.com). And the Southampton Chamber of Commerce has planned a Taste of Southampton Harvest festival that features fare from local restaurant and wares from local merchants (southampton chamber.com).

For the best and latest in independent film, there's The Hamptons International Film Festival (hamptonsfilmfest.org), which takes place from Oct. 18-22 at various venues on the South Fork. You might even see a few celebrities while you're there. (Not that anybody goes to the Hamptons to see famous people.)

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