The south shore of Suffolk County, from Amityville to the Moriches, appeals to all appetites. The area sports a broad range of restaurants, from informal fish joints to haute cuisine establishments, from inexpensive to expense-account spots. Here's a cross-section of reliable selections from the area.
BLUE
7 Montauk Hwy.
Blue Point
631-363-6666
Blue comes in a few hues. It's a steak house, but also a spot for some Japanese and new American dishes, all served in a place with two very different dining rooms. The high-ceiling space is preferable. And so are the generous filet mignon, sirloin, rib-eye, T-bone and porterhouse steaks. The wok-seared red snapper and Athenian fettuccine, with feta, both are good.
BLUE POINT RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR
227 Fourth Ave.
Bay Shore
631-206-2006
Uncomplicated and lived-in, this restaurant offers brews on tap, a good raw bar, and some diverting specialties. Try the Stilton cheese fritters, pan-seared tuna, roasted beet salad, steamed lobster, pan-seared striped bass with salsa and polenta, or barbecued chicken with sweet potato gratin and collard greens. Strawberry shortcake is the top sweet.
CUYAH
831 Long Island Ave.
Deer Park
631-242-4352
This order-at-the-counter Jamaican spot is both friendly and attractive, if situated on an industrial stretch of road. It's worth seeking out, however, for such West Indian favorites as goat curry and oxtail stew. The spiced potato and codfish pancakes called "stamp and go" are nothing short of irresistible.
EMERSON'S
69 Deer Park Ave.
Babylon
631-669-2333