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The sushi chefs are in overdrive with stylish, flavorful handrolls. And with dishes such as "eggplant Oreo," a snappy little construct with good flavor, flair and an ode to the architecture of the cookie; excellent, lush white tuna kushiyaki; lustrous bonito and Spanish mackerel tataki; and shrimp-stuffed shiitake mushrooms.
The sashimi also is recommended, especially yellowtail, tuna and fluke. But the tempuras and teriyakis are standard, nothing inspiring. Yakitori also is routine. The best strategy here is to go over the specials, which lead the selections. Otherwise, stick with the more playful sushi rolls.
You may precede them with a satisfying soup, miso among them. No need to stay for dessert. Service is efficient and generally friendly; you won't get that impression on the phone.
Peter M. Gianotti
Hours: Dinner every day. Monday to Friday for lunch.