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Hildebrandt's

 
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84 Hillside Ave.
Williston Park, NY 11596-2321
516-741-0608

You'll feel as though you've traveled back to a more easygoing era at this ice cream parlor and restaurant that started business in 1927 and has earned its place as a local institution. At lunch or dinner, you'll probably have to wait for a table, a wait made more bearable by the buoyant atmosphere of the place.

The basics are treated with respect. Hamburgers are loosely formed, light, juicy, beefy. Accompanying fried potatoes, more like homemade potato chips than French fries, are a treat. The kitchen can venture into more ambitious territory. Try the chicken au poivre, tender grilled peppered breasts with a rich black pepper brandy cream sauce, or the delicious roast chicken capitola. They habitually overcook salmon, though.

For dessert, the house-made ice cream (so many flavors to choose from) is a must, especially with some hot fudge and clouds of freshly whipped cream. Today, as in 1927, that's livin'.

Joan Reminick.

Hours

Tuesdays through Saturdays,lunch and dinner.

Assessment

Lots more than homemade ice cream at this landmark soda fountain.

Cuisine

American, Eclectic, Hamburgers, Ice Cream/Soda Fountain

Major Credit Cards Accepted

Yes

Price Range

Inexpensive (Under $15), Moderate ($15-$25)

Reservations

Not Accepted

Special Features

Open for Lunch/Brunch, Suitable for Young Children

Wheelchair Access

Not fully accessible.