Black Forest is in its 10th annual Oktoberfest, which goes through Oct. 12. The restaurant features a beer garden, tent, live music, plus sauerbraten; tafelspitz, or beef with horseradish sauce; beef rouladen; bratwurst and knockwurst; and all the house brews. They go very well with the soft pretzels.

Oak Chalet
1940 Bellmore Ave.
Bellmore
PHONE 516-826-1700
WEB oakchalet.net
COST $$

It's all wunderbar all the time at the Oak Chalet, where German cuisine has been a mainstay for more than 25 years. The friendly eatery stands out with sauerbraten with red cabbage and dumplings, wursts with sauerkraut, goulash with spaetzle, smoked trout, herring salad, Wiener schnitzel, Wiener rostbraten and apple strudel.

Pumpernickels
640 Main St.
Northport
PHONE 631-757-7959
COST $$

Pumpernickels is in its fourth decade as a bastion of German cooking. There are continental dishes and seafood, too. But the lure, especially now, is old-fashioned Teutonic fare: sauerbraten, bratwurst, pigs' knuckles, pork chops, Wiener rostbraten, herring in cream sauce, head cheese, lots of sauerkraut.

Rowdy Hall
10 Main St.
East Hampton
PHONE 631-324-8555
WEB rowdyhall.com
COST $$

Yes, Rowdy Hall. The pub-and-bistro combo adds German specialties this month. It's Wiener schnitzel with spaetzle the week of Oct. 3; sauerbraten with braised red cabbage and puréed turnips as of Oct. 10. If you come by now: smoked pork chops with braised red cabbage and grilled apple.

The White Whale
3580 Bayview St.
Seaford
PHONE 516-785-1067
WEB thewhitewhalerestaurant.com
COST $$

Call me ... hungry. The White Whale, a longtime Seaford resident, has a varied menu of steaks, seafood and pastas. But the "old world favorites" are headed by sauerbraten, Wiener rostbraten and a quartet of schnitzels, from Wiener and jaeger to chicken and schnitzel a la Holstein, complete with fried egg.

Average meal price per person: $$$$ = $100, $$$ = $60, $$ = $30, $ = $15

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