In a business known for short lives, a number of Long Island restaurants are housed in buildings that count their years in centuries.
Colonial, pre-Colonial, pre-Civil War - these places have endured and thrived. Now, the restaurants serve a side dish of history and a big sampling of nostalgia to go with the food.
Some structures still have sections that echo the 1600s and 1700s, especially on the East End. But, generally, the cuisines are more contemporary, suggesting the middle of the 20th century if not always the start of the 21st.
DINING IN HISTORY
THE MAINE MAID INN
4 Old Jericho Tpke.
Jericho
516-935-6400
The restaurant at the Maine Maid is called 1789 - named for the year the homestead that became the inn was built. It was a 19th century home, too. And now the inn is under new ownership; the cuisine, a combination of New American and continental: tropical salsa and avocado aioli coexist with rack of lamb and onion soup.
THE AMERICAN HOTEL
Main Street
Sag Harbor
631-725-3535
A quartet of dining rooms, stylish French and New American cooking and a celebrated wine list weightier than a phone book define The American Hotel. The diverse choices may include smoked duck salad, brandade de morue, sushi and sashimi, and mushroom risotto. The local landmark was erected in 1846. There are eight guest rooms.
THE MILLERIDGE INN
585 N. Broadway
Jericho
516-931-2201
The logo of The Milleridge Inn includes "1672." That's when building started on a small house here, and the exposed beams of the original still can be seen. The popular restaurant/caterer's menu includes continental and American dishes. The "historic Milleridge Village," with shops for jams, confections, souvenirs and flowers, also is a major attraction.
THE 1770 HOUSE
143 Main St.
East Hampton
631-324-1770
The story of the original house starts in 1663. It became an inn in 1770 and now is home to a charming and creative New American restaurant. The fare includes dishes such as salmon tartare, celery-root bisque, roasted organic sturgeon and braised Cedar River beef short ribs. Plenty of the Colonial architecture is on display.
THREE VILLAGE INN
150 Main St.
Stony Brook
631-751-0555
Three Village Inn has had several lives, but the history goes back to 1751. Today, the venerable spot is known for its catering and restaurant, with mainly American cooking and continental side trips. Typical courses include pot roast, lobster and prime rib. The inn is suitably festooned for holidays. There also is lodging to go with it.
TWEEDS
17 E. Main St.
Riverhead
631-208-3151
Tweeds serves bison burgers and steaks in the downtown J.J. Sullivan Hotel, established in 1896, when a few of the beasts probably did roam out west. The restaurant has a Victorian style. But the cooking is a bit more modern, adding such dishes as seared tuna and a vegetable Napoleon to go along with the Buffalo Bill specialties.
North Shore
