Newsday.com: Diverse, vibrant Huntington dining scene

Diverse, vibrant Huntington dining scene

BY JOAN REMINICK
joan.reminick@newsday.com

April 1, 2008

It's Friday night and downtown Huntington is jumping.

A knot of people congregates at the entryway to HONU Kitchen & Cocktails, while, on the other side of town, Café Buenos Aires serves up tapas and tango demonstrations. Carnivores hunker down at both the venerable Abel Conklin's and the splashy new Mac's Steakhouse as herbivores check out their options at the vegetarian-friendly House of India.

When it comes to restaurants, Huntington Village just might be Long Island's capital. With around 60 places to eat within walking distance of municipal parking, this is a dining destination both diverse and vibrant. Restaurants enter and leave the scene with regularity; some places even reinvent themselves (witness the recent metamorphosis of Off the Wall to the soon-to-open Black & Blue Seafood Chophouse). The ever-changing scene ensures the area is always on top of trends.

Alejandro González, who opened the casual Mexican Oaxaca 11 years ago, found the climate hospitable enough to launch the more upmarket Quetzalcoatl last year. "This is an open-minded town and I hope we keep it that way," said González, who likes that the scene isn't ruled by big franchise operations.

It's that atmosphere of small-town America coupled with a quasi-urban vibe that keeps Huntington going when other towns have pulled in their streets. Here's just a cross-section of the multicultural assortment:

ABEL CONKLIN'S, 54 New St., 631-385-1919. (Expensive) This traditional institution keeps its regulars happy with aged cuts of prime meat. The three-course lunch, a particularly good deal, recently included an exemplary steak tartare, an exceedingly tender, flavorsome filet mignon club sandwich and a fudgy peanut-butter brownie.

ALMARCO, 13 Wall St., 631-935-1690. (Moderate) This pretty, cozy spot features the creative Italian cookery of chef Joseph Orlando. Try his bruschetta with chopped beets and preserved lemon, his light, lush gnocchi (preparations change daily) or linguine with clams. Finish with a lemon tart.

BESITO, 402 New York Ave., 631-549-0100.(Expensive) Mexican food gets an inventive spin from chef Matthew Lake at this power spot (now with a Roslyn branch). The table-side guacamole, red snapper taco, and budin de mariscos (seafood tortilla pie) are just some ways Lake keeps things interesting.

BISTRO CASSIS, 55B Wall St., 631-421-4122. (Moderate) This deservedly popular Gallic bistro gets it right -- the vibe, the food, the service. Try the mussels, the classic salade frisée aux lardons and the delicate crepes. Finish with crčme brűlée.

CAFÉ BUENOS AIRES, (Expensive) 23 Wall St., 631-603-3600. Restaurateur Hugo Garcia's homage to his native Argentina is a warm spot with lively food and a tapas menu. Recommendations include grilled strip steak with chimichurri sauce and pork chops with bacon-caramelized bananas and fruit chutney.

CANTERBURY ALES, 314 New York Ave., 631-549-4404. (Moderate) Merrie olde England lives at this ageless pub, where you can get such classics as Scotch eggs, steak and kidney pie and the ever-popular Canterburger. There's a more- than-respectable beer list, too.

DANU, 368 New York Ave., 631-549-5757. (Expensive) In a stark white hi-glam setting a la South Beach Miami, you'll find an exciting Asian-Latin fusion menu and a sushi bar. Try the shiso halibut with melon-and-tequila sauce or a rainbow roll.

EUROPEAN REPUBLIC, 339 New York Ave., 631-692-9330. (Inexpensive) At this informal eatery, it's the incredible hand-cut Euro-style fries (with a variety of mayonnaise dips) that keep people addicted.

F.H. RILEY'S, 400 New York Ave., 631-271-7600. (Moderate) Chef co-owner Brett Hughes serves a rousing menu of New American comfort foods. Salads are big and colorful; a standout is the megawatt blue claw crab gumbo.

HONU KITCHEN & COCKTAILS, 363 New York Ave., 631-421-6900. (Moderate) Small plates rule at this reinvented restaurant (formerly Blue Honu) where the tapas menu is as high-power as the vibe. Try the short-rib-stuffed piquillo peppers, savory veal-and-chorizo meatballs, and dynamite mac and cheese.

HOUSE OF INDIA, 256B Main Street, 631-271-0059. (Moderate) The Asian subcontinent is the focus of this serene Indian restaurant where you can enjoy vegetable samosas, saag paneer (spinach and cheese) and lamb boti kebab.

JONATHAN'S RISTORANTE, 15 Wall St., 631-549-0055. (Expensive) This high-style Italian dining spot is also a major player at lunch. A warm seared-scallop salad with orange vinaigrette was a knockout special one afternoon; pumpkin ravioli with sage butter reliably satisfies.

MAC'S STEAKHOUSE, 12 Gerard St., 631-549-5300. (Expensive) New chef-co-owner Ron Gelish serves only responsibly raised Niman Ranch dry-aged beef at this stunning contemporary steak house. Sesame-wasabi-seared Hawaiian white tuna and Berkshire pork sirloin medallions share the spotlight with the traditional porterhouse.

MANGIAMO, 15 New St., 631-421-4600. (Moderate) Dine family style (platters serve two or more) at this bi-level Italian spot. Notable dishes include "country-style" pasta (rigatoni with white beans, broccoli rabe and crumbled sausage) and chicken contadina.

MARCIA'S KITCHEN, 10 New St., 631-351-1010. (Moderate) This informal Brazilian barbecue restaurant boasts a salad bar and buffet-style dining. If you order the fixed-price "rodizio" meal, servers bearing skewers will come to your table and slice as much beef, lamb, chicken or pork as you wish.

MEDITERRANEAN SNACK BAR, 360 New York Ave., 631-423-8982. (Moderate) At this super-popular Greek restaurant in the heart of Huntington, specialties include the creamy, salty taramasalata and the sturdy pastitsio and moussaka.

MIMO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT, 335 Main St., 631-271-2345. (Moderate) In a narrow, tastefully decorated space, the fare is Italian and lively. Try the clams Casino. House-made manicotti, a special, stars delicate ricotta-filled crepes in a mellow tomato sauce.

MUNDAY'S, 259 Main St., 631-421-3553. (Moderate) This luncheonette perennial serves up hearty breakfasts (try the French toast souffle), satisfying lunches (juicy, smoky burgers) and sturdy dinner specials (such as meat loaf with mashed potatoes). House-baked fruit pies are flaky-crusted.

MUSASHINO, 301 Main St., 631- 425-0777. (Moderate) Chef-owner Charlie Joo's tofu teriyaki is a must at this unpretentious Japanese-Korean place. You can get an impeccable hirami usuzukuri (thinly sliced fluke drizzled with citrus soy sauce) as well as a good garlicky kalbi (Korean barbecued short ribs).

OSTERIA DA NINO, 292 Main St., 631-425-0820. (Moderate) Decorated in sunny tones, this welcoming spot serves a rustic Italian menu that features freshly made pasta. The al dente fettuccine with veal meatballs is just one winning choice.

QUETZALCOATL, 296 Main St., 631-427-7834. (Moderate) Alejandro González, who also owns the informal Oaxaca, oversees this chic-folkloric place. His tamales Oaxaqueńos (banana leaves encasing a masa and chicken filling) are light, finished with a rich mole sauce.

RESTAURANT JOANINA, 35A Gerard St., 631-549-2727. (Expensive) Attached to the Renaissance Gourmet delicatessen is this winning full-service restaurant evoking a rustic Tuscan courtyard. Wood-oven pizza, cavatelli Bolognese and roast baby chicken are just some attractions.

ROOKIE'S SPORTS BAR, 70 Gerard St., 631-923-0424. (Moderate) At this comfortable pub, outfitted with enough TV monitors to satisfy any armchair athlete, the fare is contemporary and appealing. Try the tuna sashimi, "l'l macs" (sliders), blackened tuna and baby-back ribs.

TOAST & COMPANY, 62 Stewart Ave., 631-812-0056. (Moderate) Breakfast, lunch and, now, dinner are served at this home-style eatery where the cookery may outshine the service. Standouts include the huevos rancheros at breakfast, poached salmon salad at lunch and chicken-fried steak at dinner.

TOMO JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE, 286 Main St., 631-271-6666. (Moderate) Under the same ownership as the larger Samurai, this popular spot draws a family crowd with its pyrotechnic hibachi-style cooking. There's sushi, too.