SUFFOLK
Almarco,
13 Wall St., Huntington, 631-935-1690. (Moderate) Chef Joseph
Orlando brings a deft touch to the Italian menu at this pretty,
cozy village spot. His bruschetta three ways features a vivifying
mixture of chopped beets and preserved lemons, a sweet eggplant
caponata and an herbal white bean, red onion and Pecorino
mélange. His gnocchi, sampled, once, with a lovely
basil and tomato sauce, is airy, melting. Even linguine with white
clam sauce excels. Finish with a house-made dessert, such as the
non-Italian but winning lemon tart.
Annona,
112 Riverhead Rd., Westhampton Beach, 631-288-7766. (Expensive)
Perched atop an auto showroom for Lamborghini and other revved-up
luxuries, Annona has its own contemporary richness in a light,
sleek dining room. Gnocchi with oxtail ragu, chestnut ravioli with
brown butter and sage, braised lamb shank with polenta, black bass
agrodolce, marinated octopus with fava bean purée and
olives, rice pudding are all worth the trip out East.
Bravo!
Nader, 9 Union Place, Huntington, 631-351-1200. (Expensive)
Nader Gebrin was born in Egypt, but he cooks with a true Italian
sensibility. He also seems to know everybody at his cozy, crowded
little hideaway, decorated with lots of Italian memorabilia, plus a
couple of larger-than-life Tony Soprano photos. His ethereal
gnocchi, served with a pea-green pignoli-studded pesto, establishes
him as a pro. So does an appetizer of meatballs and spaghetti, home
style yet luxurious. A special of two brontosaurian pork chops,
stuffed with house-made sausage and fresh mozzarella, is tender and
savory. That same superior sausage is an ingredient in the
restaurant's exemplary lasagna. A finale of the lush napoleon or
tiramisu is always in order.
Caruso's,
41 Broadway, Rocky Point, 631-744-1117. (Moderate) Chef-co-owner
Wayne Wadington, who also owns La Plage in Wading River, has
transformed this plain-looking but spacious neighborhood spot into
a destination by virtue of his inspired cooking. His skillful use
of prime ingredients brings new meaning to old classics. Try the
perfect fried calamari with a vibrant tomato sauce or rich
home-style lasagna, done with ridged artisanal imported pasta. His
herbed gnocchi in a hearty yet refined Bolognese sauce virtually
dissolves on the tongue. Specials, such as slow-braised lamb shank
with pancetta and Fontina risotto, excel. Finish with
chocolate-dipped cannoli or freshly made zeppoli.
Casa
Rustica, 175 W. Main St., Smithtown, 631-265-9265. (Expensive)
Compelling, full-flavored, regional Italian cooking and very
attentive service define Casa Rustica, a local star for more than
two decades, now under Fermin Martinez. The attractive, remodeled
dining room is not so rustic, anymore. Whole fish cooked in salt
crust, scallops with chickpea salad, veal chop Valdostana, bistecca
alla Fiorentina, venison chop with berries, seafood salad, ravioli
in pink sauce, agnolotti alla Piemontese, penne Bolognese, all
risotti, cold antipasti are great, as are all pastries.
Emilio's,
2201 Jericho Tpke., Commack, 631-462-6267. (Moderate) Chef-owner
Emilio Branchinelli's noisy, bustling restaurant draws the faithful
with the lure of gutsy, individualistic Italian cooking -- hearty
soups, bright salads and fresh pastas. Rigatoni "alla mama" --
"homemade" little ridged tubes (produced at a cousin's pasta shop)
are topped with tomato sauce, meatballs and ricotta for a
comforting, vibrant dish. His veal parmigiana is a tender classic.
A list of daily specials can produce some offbeat numbers, such as
"American bistro pasta" -- crumbled hot Italian sausage,
caramelized onion, fresh spinach, Parmesan cream sauce and Barilla
orrechiette -- but Emilio has what it takes to make it work. (Find
the same fare at Pasta-Eria, 440 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville,
516-938-1555, which Branchinelli co-owns).
Guido's
Italian Restaurant, 345 Main St., Huntington, 631-424-3301.
(Moderate) The effusive Naples-born Guido Iammuno and his family
have decorated their cozy trattoria with photographs and artifacts
from the Amalfi coast. Iammuno does justice to Italian-American
classics with his crisp-crusted but tender calamari and zesty
chicken scarpariello. His shrimp fra diavolo over al dente linguine
is piquant yet mellow. Conclude with fresh strawberries over
zabaglione or the exceptionally light, crisp cannoli.
Jonathan's,
15 Wall St., Huntington, 631-549-0055. (Expensive) Creative Italian
cooking marks chef Jonathan Onofre's friendly and dependable stop
in downtown Huntington. Expect a crowd. Blood orange salad, fritto
misto, mushroom risotto, pumpkin ravioli in sage-butter sauce,
linguine with crabmeat, tagliatelle Bolognese, lamb shank braised
in Barolo wine are worth the wait.
La
Volpe Ristorante, 611 Montauk Hwy., Center Moriches,
631-874-3819. (Moderate) A trip to Center Moriches may be in order
for seekers of authentic Italian fare in a setting that's
sophisticated yet informal. Start with the fine tavollacio del
salumiere (Italian meats and cheeses) or the perfect pan-seared
artichoke hearts over arugula. Bucatini chi sardi (long tubular
pasta with sardines, fennel, pignioli, peas, tomato sauce and bread
crumbs) offers a piquant taste of Sicily; fork-tender chicken
Francese comes in a glossy, refined lemon butter sauce. The wine
list shows as much forethought as the food.
Mamma
Lombardi's, 400 Furrows Rd., Holbrook, 631-737-0774; and
Lombardi's on the Sound, 44 Fairway Dr., Port Jefferson,
631-473-1440. (Expensive) The original Mamma Lombardi's and its
waterview offspring are devoted to red sauce and excel with hearty
southern Italian dishes such as pork braciola, tripe Napolitana,
steak pizzaiola, lasagna, spaghettini with escarole and beans.
Mangia
Mangia, 69 Main St., Patchogue, 631-475-4774. (Moderate) A
commitment to organic ingredients combined with a keen sense of how
best to use them elevates chef-owner Angelo Galeotafiore's cooking
above the everyday. At his crowded and colorful downtown
restaurant, Galeotafiore serves a rich, herbal minestrone. His al
dente spaghetti with light, savory meatballs may well be better
than Grandma's. Petite fried artichokes are a treat, as is the
hearty chicken scarpariello, made with sausage from the family's
pork store. For dessert, try the tiramisu in a martini glass or
flourless bittersweet chocolate cake with vanilla gelato
Mario,
644 Vanderbilt Motor Pkwy., Hauppauge, 631-273-9407. (Moderate) The
most dependable eatery along this restaurant row, Mario revels in
old-fashioned Italian-American favorites: vegetable soup,
stracciatelle soup, cannelloni, trenette in pesto, fried calamari,
veal chop Parmigiana, tripe Napolitana and cheesecake.
Mazzi,
493 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington, 631-421-3390. (Expensive) This
jewel-toned little spot is an offshoot of Piccolo, the popular
downtown Huntington Italian-New American restaurant. Mazzi brings
in some New American, too, but stresses the Italian, in style and
substance. Try the stuffed veal chop, pan-seared striped bass, figs
with Gorgonzola cheese dressing and prosciutto, zabaglione
Nick
& Toni's, 136 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550.
(Expensive) This celebrity haunt overflows in summer, but has even
more appeal off-season because the real stars are in the kitchen,
courtesy of chef Joseph Realmuto. Fazzoletti pasta with caramelized
sunchokes and guanciale, "rigatoncini" in pork ragu, pork osso
buco, black-pepper pappardelle, spaghetti with clams, mushroom
risotto, escarole with anchovy vinaigrette and pecorino cheese,
oven-roasted whole fish all satisfy.
Nonnina,
999 Montauk Hwy., West Islip, 631-321-8717. (Expensive) Vibrant
Italian posters decorate Nonnina, a destination for colorful fare
that's both homey and sophisticated. Vegetable-meat-cheese
antipasti, arancini, seafood salad, cavatelli Bolognese,
pappardelli with zucchini sauce, roasted pork chop with escarole,
osso buco, cabbage with cotechino sausage, monkfish piccata are the
menu standouts.
Robert's, 755 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 631-726-7171.
(Expensive) In Robert Durkin's rustic and charming country
hideaway, chef de cuisine Natalie Byrnes turns out some of the most
refined, informed Italian cooking in the area. Prosciutto with figs
and balsamic syrup makes for a simple, ideal starter. One night, a
special of bay scallops with basil and garlic was impeccable. Al
dente house-made pappardelle with duck confit, asparagus, shiitaki
mushrooms and fresh herbs exuded a truffle-scented earthiness,
while a special of short ribs with horseradish gnocchi was home
cooking gone haute. A side dish of roasted artichokes with olive
oil, fresh mint and garlic was worthy of center stage. For a
finale, pistachio nougat -- really a semifreddo -- came off as
winning and believably Italian as the restaurant.
