Our favorite Italian restaurants in Nassau

Expensive: over $100 for two; Moderate: $50 and up for two


NASSAU

18 Bay, 18A Bayville Ave., Bayville, 516-628-0130. (Expensive) With fresh and carefully sourced ingredients, chef-co-owners Elizabeth Wolff and Adam Kopels adhere passionately to the Italian concepts of seasonality and simplicity, if not always to traditional recipes (e.g. braised short ribs accented with kimchi). Having no staff except for a dishwasher, the two do all the cooking, and there are only about 20 seats in the pretty dining room within view of Ransom Beach. Start with a pristine appetizer of culatello (salt-cured ham) with kale-and-lemon salad followed, perhaps, by house-made pasta primavera and chicken al mattone (pan-seared under a brick). The chocolate Bundt cake is terrific in any language.

Angelina's, 1017 Oyster Bay Rd., East Norwich, 516-922-0033; and Angelina's II, 30 Berry Hill Rd., Syosset, 516-364-8234. (Moderate) These two restaurants look different but have similar, tempting menus. Angelina's II is cozier, in a house setting; Angelina's, more modest in a shopping area. Minestrone, baked clams oreganata, broccoli rabe and chicken sausage on polenta, gnocchi alla Bolognese, spaghettini alla puttanesca, sea bass Livornese and lobster fra diavolo are the favorites.

Arturo's, 246-04 Jericho Tpke., Bellerose, 516-352-7418. (Expensive) A veteran on the Nassau-Queens border with traditional cuisine, and sometimes a sweet-voiced table-side singer who knows the standards and more. Welcoming and consistent. Chef Mimma D'Anna's menu features cold antipasti, torta primavera, stuffed artichoke, spaghetti carbonara, fusilli Amatriciana, striped bass Livornese, steak pizzaiola, veal chop Milanese, cannoli, cheesecake and zabaglione.

Benny's, 199 Post Ave., Westbury, 516-997-8111. (Expensive) Seamless service and stirring food mark Benny's. Northern and southern Italian dishes are handled with equal skill, served in a traditional dining room. Chef Armando Cotumaccio's spiedino alla Romana, stuffed zucchini flowers, seafood salad, pasta e fagioli, wild mushroom tortelloni, gnocchi in veal ragu, pappardelle with porcini, braised tripe, steak pizzaiola, chicken contadina with sausage and peppers, and almond-crusted branzino shine, as do desserts.

Brivo, 290 E. Glen Cove Rd., East Hills, 516-626-5200. (Expensive) A new, elegant establishment with vivid, seasonal Italian cuisine took over the address last year that was long-occupied by L'Endroit. It's worthwhile to sample chef Peter Petti's fried zucchini flowers, seafood panzanella, tagliarini with truffles and Parmesan, tagliatelle Bolognese, ricotta-and-spinach crespelle, veal chop Valdostana, braised lamb shoulder and lamb chops with polenta, tiramisu.

Cafe Girasole, 1053 Oyster Bay Rd., East Norwich, 516-624-8330. (Expensive) Bright as its namesake sunflower, Cafe Girasole has a seasonal glow. It's a bustling, noisy place, too, but service is accommodating. Red snapper Livornese, grilled swordfish, veal chop Milanese, cavatelli in meat sauce, perciatelli Amatriciana, linguine with clam sauce, minestrone, pasta e fagioli as well as cheesecake are all worth ordering.

Caracalla, 102 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-496-3838. (Expensive) In the formal pastel-hued dining room of this Old World bastion, tuxedoed waiters are friendlier than they initially seem. After reciting the long list of specials, they're glad to offer ordering suggestions. And chef-owner Vincenzo Della Torre comes through with some first-rate dishes. On one occasion, a special of grilled octopus was supremely tender, imbued with subtle hints of garlic. Try the creamy house-made gnocchi in a fragrant pea-studded Bolognese sauce. Al dente linguine comes bathed in a briny, fresh white clam sauce. Sogliole alle mandorle (sole with almonds) makes for a delicate choice. Strawberries with freshly whipped cream ends the meal on a light note.

Dodici, 12 N. Park Ave., Rockville Centre, 516-764-3000. (Moderate) The Renaissance lives at this attractive (often noisy) spot with vaulted ceilings, graceful columns and Michaelangelo reproductions. What counts most is the carefully executed Italian fare, from the resonant white bean soup to the puffy-crusted pizzette to a special of gently stewed pork osso buco with an opulent saffron risotto. For a finale, it's hard to choose between the rum-soaked bread pudding or the airy tiramisu.

Franina, 58 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-496-9770. (Expensive) Franina has expanded over the years and enriched the decor. The very good Italian food and even better wines remain. Smooth service, inviting atmosphere, no nonsense. Chef Victor Zitoli's seafood salad, pappardelle Bolognese, grilled whole branzino and orata, linguinette with clam sauce, lobster fra diavolo, beef braciola go first, then zabaglione.

Galleria Dominick, 238 Post Ave., Westbury, 516-997-7373. (Expensive) A comfortable elegance informs this Westbury spot, where a pianist softly plays during dinner. Tuxedoed waiters are seasoned pros. Highlights include a colorful Italian chopped salad, a robust rigatoni with veal ragu and a lively Livornese-style red snapper filet with a bright cloak of tomatoes and olives. For dessert, the house-made raspberry cake is light yet rich, gratis biscotti freshly baked.

Il Mulino, 1042 Northern Blvd., Roslyn Estates, 516-621-1870. (Expensive) The din is high, the lights are low and neither the crowd nor the waiters can get enough of themselves. Nonetheless, this Long Island branch of a New York City mainstay remains a hot table. The gratis antipasto alone (Parmesan, sausage, sauteed zucchini and garlic bread) is enough to make a meal. Other highlights include the house-made pastas (such as porcini ravioli in truffle-flecked Champagne cream sauce), risotti and delicate Dover sole. Finish with fresh berries and zabaglione. You'll pay through the nose.

King Umberto, 1343 Hempstead Tpke., Elmont, 516-352-3232. (Moderate) King Umberto has reigned in southwest Nassau since 1976. Its motto: "real Italian ... real good." Really accurate, too. Time-capsule decor. Stuffed artichoke, crisp "baci balls" of mozzarella, roasted peppers and prosciutto, orecchiette with cauliflower, chicken scarpariello, rigatoni Bolognese, roast pork, cannoli are consistently good.

La Bussola, 40 School St., Glen Cove, 516-671-2100. (Expensive) For more than 25 years, La Bussola has been a magnet for locals and a lot of visitors looking for straightforward Italian food, mostly southern, sometimes northern. Stuffed eggplant, baked clams, escarole-and-bean soup, penne with broccoli rabe and sausage, linguine puttanesca, swordfish oreganata, lobster fra diavolo, steak pizzaiola, stuffed and skewered veal rolls lead the menu.

La Ginestra, 50 Forest Ave., Glen Cove, 516-674-2244. (Expensive) La Ginestra is on the site long-occupied by Restaurant Zanghi. It has built a deserved reputation for reliable, flavorful and very satisfying food. Artichokes cooked in olive oil, fennel-endive-orange salad, gnocchi Bolognese, calf's liver Veneziana, red snapper sauteed with onions, pine nuts, raisins and vinegar all shine.

La Pace with Chef Michael, 51 Cedar Swamp Rd., Glen Cove, 516-671-2970. (Expensive) Under new ownership, La Pace continues to thrive. The dining room remains a high-ceilinged showcase, the service professional, and the menu traditional. Michael Mossallam's standouts include ricotta gnocchi, tortelloni Emiliana in Parmesan-pesto sauce, fusilli alla Bolognese, grilled whole branzino, veal chop Milanese, pork chop with vinegar peppers, panzanella, stracciatella alla Romana.

Luigi Q, 400 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville, 516-932-7450. (Expensive) There's a rush of authenticity at Luigi Q, a restaurant where the menu is only the starting point. The dining room is neutral, the food anything but. Take Luigi Quarta's advice: Enjoy the specials. Cured meats and cheeses, seafood salad, baked eggplant, tripe in red sauce, fettuccine with cream-peas-prosciutto, gnocchi, fusilli all'Amatriciana, tuna with balsamic syrup are all favorites.

Mio, 1363 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-625-4223. (Expensive) Mio has a deftly carved niche among local Italian restaurants, balancing the new and the traditional, the subtle and the robust. Grilled polenta with fontina cheese and sauteed mushrooms, wild mushroom risotto, cavatelli with chopped tomatoes and ricotta salata, gnocchi in veal-and-chicken ragu, gnocchi with Gorgonzola and Parmesan, grilled sausages on broccoli rabe lead the list

Nick DiAngelo, 33 Sunrise Hwy., Merrick, 516-379-2222; and 152 Park Ave., Long Beach, 516-899-3366. (Moderate) A duet of popular, openhanded restaurants with solid service, vigorous cuisine and their own buzz. Bring an appetite. Minestrone, mozzarella-in-carrozza, St. Peter's fish piccata, eggplant rollatini, lasagna Bolognese, meatballs, assorted Parmigianas work great at both spots.

Novita, 860 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-739-7660. (Moderate) A snappy trattoria, buoyant and noisy, where the wine flows and the food has flair. Fontina-and-mushroom arancini, tomato bruschetta, fried zucchini, meatball sliders, rigatoni ragu, spaghetti alla carbonara, panini, braised lamb shank, chicken with white beans and escarole, shrimp with lobster-and-fregola risotto, cheeses and cured meats lead the savories, chocolate polenta cake and zeppole the sweets.

Piccola Bussola, 159 Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-294-4620; and 970 W. Jericho Tpke., Huntington, 631-692-6300. (Moderate) Two generous, family-style restaurants, informal and often partylike, with similar menus and heaping platters. Try the fried zucchini, stuffed artichokes, baked clams oreganata, linguine puttanesca, linguine with clam sauce, chicken campagnola, pork chops with broccoli rabe and cherry peppers, steak Siciliano, chicken and veal Parmigiana.

Rialto, 588 Westbury Ave., Carle Place, 516-997-5283. (Expensive) Cozy and comfortable, Rialto is a low-key establishment with high standards. Excellent seasonal specials. Cold antipasti, spaghetti carbonara, pansotti in vodka sauce, gnocchi in pesto, fuzi pasta Istriana with veal sauce, lamb shank with lentils, mushroom risotto, venison with chestnut sauce, roast duck with green apples, red snapper Livornese are tops, as is the tiramisu.

Sergio's, 5422 Merrick Rd., Massapequa, 516-541-6554. (Moderate) Unpretentious, consistent neighborhood spot that offers all the standards but excels with gutsy southern Italian fare. The best of it: orange salad, stuffed artichoke, perciatelli pasta with sardines and fennel, eggplant Parmigiana, spaghetti and meatballs, pasta e fagioli, pasta piselli, beef braciola, tripe three ways, cannoli.

Stresa, 1524 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516-365-6956; and Stresa East, 7940 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-364-1565. (Expensive) Handsome dining rooms, excellent service, and refined cuisine are the hallmarks of these restaurants. Ella Rocca is the chef at Stresa; Alfredo Barone, at Stresa East. Their exceptional dishes include: four-bean soup, lentil soup with cotechino sausage, lasagnette of eggplant, carpaccio, malfatti pasta in tomato-basil sauce, linguine with crabmeat, risotti, braised lamb shank, duck with gnocchi and cabbage, pan-seared branzino, desserts, biscotti.

Trattoria Diane, 21 Bryant Ave., Roslyn; 516-621-2591. (Expensive) The restaurant offshoot of the very good bakery an alley away, Trattoria Diane attracts diners with lively, often creative interpretations of Italian food. Some winners: roasted monkfish with grilled fennel, vegetable soup, grilled artichoke salad, ricotta ravioli with chanterelles and peas, veal meatballs in rosemary-seasoned tomato sauce on grilled bread.

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