Newsday.com: For leap year: 2004 spots that are still cookin'

For leap year: 2004 spots that are still cookin'

BY PETER M. GIANOTTI
peter.gianotti@newsday.com

February 29, 2008

In a leap-year mood, the detour goes back to the hits of 2004. No, not Swift Boat ads or Ohio voting machines. This is about restaurants that debuted in the year of "Million Dollar Baby" and "Sideways," the Red Sox trophy and Michael Phelps' gold medals.

Sticking with American and New American spots, the still-cooking '04 winners on Long Island were/are ...

Bistro M, 70 Glen Head Rd., Glen Head; 516-671-2498. The New American beauty by the railroad tracks remains a cozy, inviting restaurant. Chef Mitch SuDock's diverse dishes include pumpkin ravioli with cabbage and chestnuts; grilled octopus with brandade fries and caponata; pomegranate-glazed duck; pistachio-crusted halibut; and bacon-and-tomato macaroni and cheese.

Corbin & Reynolds, 20 W. Park Ave., Long Beach; 516-431-4600. The Corbin was president of the LIRR; the Reynolds, the city's first mayor. Their namesake is a sprawling, spirited establishment for American food. Through the years, the dishes have included pulled-pork tacos, braised short ribs, rack of lamb, grilled swordfish and a "molten lava" warm chocolate cake.

On Three, 32 Railroad Ave., Glen Head; 516-656-3266. A stylish New American on the opposite side of the tracks from Bistro M, On Three is known for lively cooking and atmosphere. Some favorites: porcini-dusted halibut, osso buco, a combo of tuna tartare and gravlax, crab cakes with corn salad, and a bananas Foster praline parfait.

Scrimshaw, 102 Main St., Greenport; 631- 477-8882. Waterside and welcoming, Scrimshaw delights whether it's autumn-winter or spring-summer. It's situated dockside at Preston's Wharf. Look for the chestnut-parsnip soup, dim sum, duck confit spring roll, braised lamb shank with tamarind-soy sauce, chocolate pudding and the apple upside-down cake.

Snaps, 2010 Wantagh Ave., Wantagh; 516-221-0029. Chef Scott Bradley excels at this informal, very satisfying New American eatery. You'll enjoy dishes as different from one another as wok-crisped duck with lavender honey and hanger steak with blue cheese sauce, ahi tuna tartare and lobster "knuckle" sandwich, bananas Foster and cannoli.

Thom Thom, 3340 Park Ave., Wantagh; 516-221-9022. Steaks, seafood and Asian fare define Thom Thom, a colorful place for big flavors. Try the tuna trio of tartare, tempura and tataki; coconut shrimp satay; kung "pow" calamari fueled by chiles; the pulled-pork sandwich; fire-roasted fish of the day, with mango salsa or red ginger beurre blanc; and steaks, including the porterhouse, Kansas City strip and filet mignon.

Wild Honey, 1 E. Main St., Oyster Bay; 516-922-4690. Theodore Roosevelt's summer office has had a lot of different residents since those bully-old-days. Of the restaurants that have occupied the site, Wild Honey clearly is the best: a very good New American that recently spawned the fine Wild Harvest in Glen Cove. At Wild Honey, the commendable fare has included a juicy, grilled double-cut pork chop, shellfish chowder, steamed littlenecks, Key lime pie, and, yes, pappardelle Bolognese.