A roaring fire is the cold-weather equivalent of an ocean view: Looking at it while you dine instantly improves the quality of your meal. While waves crashing against the shore produce a hankering for clams on the half-shell, a glowing hearth calls for rich soups, hearty braises and decadent desserts, the effects of which can be camouflaged by layers of winter clothing.
The following restaurants offer fireside dining and menus to match:
Absolutely Mario, 10 Allen Blvd., Farmingdale, 631-694-7416. Charming host Mario Garcia offers an Italian menu at his cozy Farmingdale restaurant, made all the warmer by a working fireplace. Have a bowl of tortellini in brodo and the non-Italian but lively shrimp jalapeño, shellfish in a chile-laced red sauce. Finish with chocolate-covered strawberries in zabaglione.
Barney's, 315 Buckram Rd., Locust Valley, 516-671-6300. A local mainstay for more than 20 years, Barney's remains fresh and inviting in a cozy, New Englandy way. The New American menu may include such specialties as crab cakes, pancetta-wrapped pork tenderloin with caramelized cauliflower puree, rack of lamb with root-vegetable ratatouille, ahi tuna with a stir-fry of soba noodles and peanut-ginger sauce, plus shepherd's pie.
The Bellport, 159 S. Country Rd., Bellport, 631-286-7550. The fireplace provides only some of the warmth at The Bellport, a friendly, countrified spot for fine New American cuisine with big flavors. Typical dishes include jumbo lump crab cakes, buttermilk fried chicken, chili, corn-crusted oysters with blue-cheese dip, grilled pork chops with barbecue-coffee sauce, marinated rib steak with green-onion chutney and a duck breast confit of leg combo.
Robert's, 755 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 631-726-7171. In an atmospheric country farmhouse setting, you'll find two fireplaces, along with the carefully crafted Italian cuisine of chef-owner Robert Durkin and chef de cuisine Natalie Byrnes. If it's on the menu, try the house-made pappardelle with duck confit, asparagus, shiitake mushrooms and fresh herbs, redolent of truffles. It's a scent that mingles well with wood smoke. To conclude, even in winter, the frozen pistachio nougat is a must.
Thyme Restaurant & Cafe Bar, 8 Tower Place, Roslyn, 516-625-2566. You can gaze out at the duck pond while enjoying the roaring fire at this scenic Roslyn New American spot. A winter's meal might begin with a bowl of French onion soup, moving on to a main course of braised short ribs with roasted root vegetables. A mug of Belgian hot chocolate and a plate of freshly baked cookies makes an apt conclusion.
