Newsday.com: Best breakfasts on Long Island

Best breakfasts on Long Island

BY JOAN REMINICK
Newsday Staff Writer

Any local diner can make you eggs, but how many places can serve you a breakfast that will make your day?

Few enough. Which is why epicures who may lose count of their favorite dinner spots can usually name only one place they cozy up to for breakfast.

Meredith Lupion of Babylon terms Glen's Dinette, in her hometown, a friendly "jewel box of an all-American eatery." Joe Rossi of Centre Island swears by the morning meals at Maureen's Kitchen & Daughters in Smithtown. "The place just keeps getting better," he says. And Ray Guarino of Merrick views Thomas's Ham & Eggery in Carle Place as tops in Nassau County. "If you get there after 9 a.m. on the weekend you'll find a line out the door, snaking into the parking lot," he warns.

And that's just fine with the diner's co-owner, Tom Koukoulas. "We try to keep things simple and fresh, kind of like an extension of someone's home," he said.

Twenty-two years ago, Maureen Dernbach started cooking home-style pancakes, eggs and French toast in Smithtown at a little roadhouse on Terry Road, which she decorated in a bovine motif. With her children Kevin, Christine and Doreen, Dernbach later moved Maureen's Kitchen & Daughters across the street to more spacious quarters. Dernbach retired in January, leaving the place in the hands of her children. Daughter Christine Fortier credits her mom with having come up with ideas that others have since imitated, such as stuffed French toast.

Individuality, coupled with a respect for simplicity and tradition, is what keeps a breakfast spot percolating. That's certainly true of the following dozen, which, minor shortcomings aside, have the right ingredients to rank as top-of-the-morning kinds of places.

Nassau County

CRABBY AMY'S, 516-783-2554, By land: 2880 Ocean Ave., Seaford; By sea: Tideway River. Treasure Island Marina. No slips, but you can dock by the launch ramp.

Chef-owner Amy Breidenbach (who did not strike me as crabby in the least) also owns a more refined seafood restaurant in Seaford, Catfish Max - well, the latter has walls and servers - whereas, at Crabby Amy's you place your order at the window and then have a seat on a bench under the canopy. This is one of the rare dockside eateries to serve breakfast, and what a breakfast it is. I was wowed by a luxurious seafood omelet, chock-full of freshly picked crabmeat and big shrimp, the whole thing smothered in paprika-sprinkled Hollandaise sauce. Was it my imagination, or did the boat sit a little lower in the water after breakfast? -- Erica Marcus

The Hideaway (In the Jude Thaddeus Glen Cove Marina, 76 Shore Rd., Glen Cove, 516- 759-4340) -- Hard to find but worth the search, this attractive all-purpose restaurant in a boatyard serves delicate banana-stuffed French toast that defies the heavy cliche. Eggs and pancakes round out the menu.

Jo Jo Apples (85 Lido Blvd., Point Lookout, 516-432-6494) -- On a recent visit, the signature apple pancakes at this pleasant-looking spot were lacy and full of fruit; banana nut pancakes were fine, too. I savored these, as well as an excellent farmer's frittata, under an outdoor canopy. What almost spoiled the experience was a churlish waitress who slammed down plates, mixed up orders and alienated not only our table but several others. An aberration, I would hope.

Marybill Diner (14 Merrick Ave., Merrick) 516-378-9715 -- Housed in a vintage 1949 Silk City diner, this venerable spot is defiantly old-fashioned and, some might say, a little worn around the edges. No matter. Owners Mary and Nick Kolkos serve the definitive Western omelet, threaded with delicate strands of onion and bursting with ham and bright peppers. Pancakes are lacy, crisp-edged, thin and tender. Service is unfailingly warm.

Rein Bar & Bistro ( Garden City Hotel, 45 Seventh St., Garden City, 516-877-9385) -- High rollers on expense accounts know they'll always find caring, knowledgeable service and comfortable environs at this power breakfast spot. The freshly squeezed OJ is top-notch -- and should be, at $5 a pour. I wasn't that impressed with the steel-cut Irish oatmeal, but apple-filled pancakes were light and fragrant (and also $15). A spinach and Cheddar omelet was, as billed, fluffy.

Thomas's Ham & Eggery Diner (325 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-333-3060) -- At this near-legendary all-American diner, brothers Tom and George Koukoulas offer warm welcomes and reassuring morning specialties. Even committed hot cereal-phobes can be won over by the soothing, creamy oatmeal. Egg dishes -- including an exemplary frittata of house-made chicken maple sausage, leeks, potatoes and Swiss cheese -- are served up in skillets. Crunchy hot Belgian waffles are first-rate.

Suffolk County

Glenn's Dinette (23 E. Main St., Babylon, 631-669-9858) -- This cozy Babylon institution has been around since 1948; Raymond "Hapi" Auer and Chrissie Auer have owned it for the past 16 years. I enjoyed piping hot tender "blue monkey" pancakes loaded with fresh blueberries and bananas. A house-baked raisin scone was old-fashioned good, as was the sturdy corned beef hash.

Maureen's Kitchen & Daughters (108 Terry Rd. Smithtown, 631-360-9227) -- In a sprawling Victorian manse with an enclosed wraparound porch, the faithful come in droves to be well-fed by the Dernbachs, Suffolk's unofficial first family of breakfast. Recent hits were delicate pecan oat bran pancakes topped with fresh blueberries and subtly citrusy orange pancakes (although the garnish of canned mandarin orange was a no-no). Omelets -- like the spot-on combo of white Cheddar and prosciutto -- are fluffy and meltingly good, paired with perfect home-fried potatoes. And the baked oatmeal, served with warm milk, is like a hot cookie in a bowl.

Munday's (259 Main St., Huntington, 631-421-3553) -- At this atmospheric Huntington luncheonette-soda fountain and restaurant, breakfast specials change daily. Favorites include the French toast souffle, a bread pudding made with cream cheese, maple syrup, challah and eggs, as well as creative omelets and hearty fruit pancakes.

Premier Diner (690 Commack Rd., Commack, 631-462-1432) -- Every few months, Helen Georgatos changes the breakfast specials at her gleaming new diner. Baked oatmeal is one way to start the morning on the right note. Pancakes -- plain, fruit-filled or whole wheat -- are thick but never heavy. While the kitchen no longer serves sourdough hot cakes, a personal favorite, it'll do a shortcut method on request that approaches the light, tangy originals.

Sweet Mama's (9 Alsace Place, corner Fort Salonga Road, Northport, 631-261-6262) -- Sunshine fills the blue and yellow dining rooms of this newcomer, which has gotten better since it opened last December. In addition to perky service, I found tender pancakes, excellent omelets (the South Beach is a nondeprivational winner) and lush, creamy oatmeal. But a recent special of johnnycakes was undercut by aerosol whipped cream and overly sweet fruit sauce.

Tim's Shipwreck Diner (46 Main St., Northport, 631-754-1797) -- Even if this vintage diner weren't a morning magnet for local power brokers, it would still draw crowds with its inventive omelet specials, satisfying waffles and heartwarming oatmeal. Locals are proud that the place also served as a backdrop for scenes in the 1997 movie "In and Out."

Toast (242 E. Main St., Port Jefferson, 631-331-6860) -- In a coffeehouse hung with local works of art, I found superlative home-fried potatoes as well as a delicious breakfast burrito stuffed with a fluffy melange of scrambled eggs, sausage, peppers and potatoes. In comparison, doughy blueberry pancakes were -- well, toast.