It's hazy, hot and wickedly humid. In other words,
August, a time when you're itching to break free of your kitchen and hit a few restaurants.
For me, the ideal summer meal offers major quantities of splash for minor outlays of cash.
Each of the four listed below has something I crave this time of year, whether it be simple, nostalgic fare, scenic surroundings or an overall sense that I'm on vacation.
Bonbori
14 Elm St., Huntington
631-673-0400
The leafy garden patio at Bonbori is one of Huntington's hidden pleasures. After a recent ownership change, the menu remains split between Japanese (mostly sushi) and Thai food. A breeze rustled the trees as I sampled some ultra-fresh, artfully composed maki rolls ($4 to $13). A cold rice paper-wrapped vegetable roll ($7) proved sprightly; chicken satays ($7) were exceptionally tender. I liked that the mango chicken curry ($14) arrived mega-spicy, as requested.
Cafe Havana
944 W. Jericho Tpke., Smithtown
631-670-6277
This suave new spot has an upbeat vibe and a hot, mostly Cuban menu with Caribbean overtones. I was taken by the mofongo, a Puerto Rican dish of mashed plantains, ordered topped with tender, well marinated skirt steak ($19). A cool ceviche ($16) - raw fish "cooked" by citrus juice - was supremely refreshing, while a Cuban sandwich ($11) - roasted pork, ham, pickles, cheese and mayo - was savory and satisfying. Ultimately, it was the fab sangria that moved this spot onto my list of summer favorites.
La Fondita
74 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett
631-267-8800
lafondita.net
At this invariably crowded little food stand, you'll find some of the brightest, most authentic Mexican food for miles around. Order at the counter and then snag one of the picnic tables out back by a tranquil pond. You'll want to sample one of the soft corn tacos ($2.75 each) - the savory carne asada, the spicy chorizo sausage or the fried fish taco with chipotle mayonnaise and shredded cabbage. On a cool day, pozole rojo ($3.50), a pork, hominy and chile soup-stew is a delicious meal in itself. Finish with the silky flan ($2.75).
Shipwreck Tavern
10 Bayville Ave., Bayville
516-628-2628
shipwreckpub.com
North Shore
