Newsday.com: Where to eat when you're on jury duty

Where to eat when you're on jury duty

Try these restaurants near Long Island's court houses

BY JOAN REMINICK
joan.reminick@newsday.com

April 18, 2007

When court recesses for lunch, do justice to your appetite by sampling the wealth of culinary options within walking or short driving distances. Most come recommended by court personnel; some are Newsday discoveries.

At all these places, the price point for a lunch with beverage but without dessert ranges from inexpensive (up to $10) to moderate (up to $15). Costlier restaurants are not listed.

Keep in mind that even though most servers are accustomed to working around court schedules, it's always a good idea to communicate your time limitations.

SUFFOLK/CENTRAL ISLIP

Walking Distance:

(Moderate) Carrabba's Italian Grill, 20 N. Research Place, Central Islip, (631) 232-1070. Conveniently situated across from the courts, this corporate chain goes beyond spaghetti and meatballs -- which, by the way, are very good. The Caesar salad is vibrant and well-dressed. Try the rigatoni Martino, done with grilled chicken and vegetables in tomato cream sauce sprinkled with ricotta salata and scallions.

(Moderate) The Epicurean Room, New York Institute of Technology Culinary Arts Center, 300 Carlton Ave., Central Islip, 631-348-3232. Culinary students prepare and serve the ever-changing $14.95 lunch buffet at this elegant restaurant-within-a-school. There are usually six hot items, such as salmon with pineapple salsa and roast pork tenderloin, a pasta, an assortment of vegetables, potatoes and a Viennese table holding a variety of desserts. Think of it as a daily party.

A Short Drive:

(Inexpensive to moderate) Lucky Joy Asian Cuisine,496 Main St., Islip, 631-277-8811. This contemporary new spot specializes in both Chinese and Japanese food. It also has a sushi bar, preferred by some solo diners. An economically priced $7.95 Chinese lunch comes with soup and rice or vegetable lo mein and includes such choices as kung pao chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce and Hong Kong style roast pork chow fun. There are also several Japanese complete lunches, including a bento box with salmon teriyaki, California roll, shumai and a salad.

(Inexpensive to moderate) El Salvador Restaurant, 98 Carlton Ave., Central Islip, 631-342-0546. Discover this hospitable El Salvadoran spot where the savory pupusas (cheese-stuffed tortillas) are irresistible (and under $2 apiece). At a recent lunch, chicken soup was a veritable elixir containing plump bone-in poultry pieces and vegetables. Other menu choices include chicken stew, meat tacos and fish soup.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Vinnie's Mulberry Street, 15 W. Main St., East Islip, 516-581-7260. The hands-down favorite among court staffers, this cozy Italian restaurant impressed at a recent lunch, when a special of penne escarole and beans was richly satisfying. So, too, was juicy grilled chicken with bright (but not bitter) broccoli rabe. Both came with a respectable salad. Those pressed for time can grab a quick slice of pizza or a meatball parmigiana hero.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Tennessee Jack's BBQ, 148 Carleton Ave., East Islip, 631-581-9657. The atmosphere is casual at this Southern-style roadhouse with a bargain-priced lunch menu. Here, the draw is fine slow-smoked barbecue. The brisket quesadilla is knockout stuff; ribs are tender and smoky. And pulled pork -- moistened, not slathered with sauce -- is a treat, whether enjoyed on a sandwich or by itself. Even the grilled salmon is good.

(Inexpensive) Green Cactus Fresh Mexican Grill,591 Main St., Islip, 631-969-3200. The name says it all; Tex-Mex food that's fast, fresh and lively, ideal for those in a rush. The place serves an authentic fish taco topped with shredded cabbage. Enchiladas, burritos and salads - to be ordered with either chicken, shrimp or steak - complete the menu.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Tuscany House, 2765 Sunrise Hwy., Islip Terrace, 631-224-1300. Pizza, calzones and such pastas as penne a la vodka and rigatoni carobonara attract the legal pros, who find they get can dine well and get back to the courts in good time.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Gino's Tuscany, 517 Main St., Islip, 631-581-9510. This cozy in-town spot serves pizza as well as an extensive menu of Italian specialties. You'll find chicken Romana (grilled boneless breast with vegetables in a brown wine sauce) and penne caponata (pasta with eggplant, black olives, roasted peppers and capers in a tomato sauce). There's also a roster of salads and toasted Tuscan panini, one made with broccoli rabe and sausage, another with grilled eggplant, roasted pepper and fresh mozzarella.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Luciano's Restaurant & Bar, 2-4 W. Main St., East Islip, 631-581-6811. Sandwiches, salads plus an array of Continental specialties are the draws at this newly renovated reinacarnation of the East Islip Clam & Oyster Bar. Midday options include a grilled breast of chicken sandwich, a char-grilled hamburger with fries, a Caesar salad, chicken Marsala and grilled salmon.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Oconee East, 749 Main St., Islip, 631-581-2663. A favorite with locals, this glittery diner specializes in variety. Burgers are especially good - char-grilled, thick and juicy. In addition to a roster of hearty omelets (the farmer's is a popular one), there are salads, sandwiches and entrees.

(Moderate) Irish Coffee Pub, 131 Carlton Ave., East Islip, 631-277-0007. Lawyers, judges and other court staffers like the shepherd's pie, corned beef and cabbage and fish and chips and at this stately Irish crowd-pleaser. There are also salads (Oriental chicken and the obligatory Caesar) and sandwiches (a hearty Reuben and a Tequila lime marinated grilled chicken wrap) as well as Continental entrees like baked stuffed filet of sole with lobster cream sauce.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Luna Pizza, 64 Carleton Ave # C, Islip Terrace, 631-581-8256. Picked by several court personnel as a favorite, this is a good spot for a quick slice, but there's lots more. Although service is order-at-the-counter, it's not uncommon to see the 20 seats occupied by attorneys hunkering down over such specialties as chicken parmesan, penne ala vodka, grilled chicken salad, spaghetti and meatballs and shrimp oreganata.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Beachtree Restaurant & Bar, 166 W. Main, East Islip, 631-277-4800. A longtime standby among court staffers, this popular spot cleverly offers an "express" lunch, guaranteeing that diners will have their meals within 15 minutes or less. Among wraps, there's an egg white low carb number done with spinach and Swiss, served with a house salad. Other specialties include a filet of salmon on a potato pancake, a variety of panini (such as pesto chicken) and such pastas as Cajun bow ties and penne ala vodka. Customize your salad with greens, dressings, vegetables and proteins.

SUFFOLK/RIVERHEAD

A short drive:

(Inexpensive to moderate) Digger's Fine Food & Spirits, 58 W. Main St., Riverhead. 631-369-3200.- This much-loved in-town magnet draws legals as well as locals, who enjoy more than such Irish specialties as corned beef and cabbage and shepherd's pie. The menu also offers sandwiches, like blackened chicken or prime ribyes, a prime rib sandwich, as well as burgers and soups (on a cold day, the sausage and cabbage brew may be just the thing). Salad choices include a spinach and a chef's salad. Those with heartier appetites can get such entrees as baby back ribs or a marinated steak.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Buoy One Market & Restaurant, 1175 W. Main St., Riverhead. This fish market cafe serves all manner of seafood specialties, both imaginative and simple, courtesy of chef David Girard. Fried seafood baskets - whole clams, calamari, scallops, shrimp and fish filet - are available in lunch-sized portions. There are also salads, such as a warm shellfish medley with fresh seafood and garlic saffron vinaigrette, as well as fish sandwiches and chowders. More adventuresome (and costly) specials include crispy pork and wok-seared scallops.

(Inexpensive) East Enders Coffee House, 40 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-2656. This cozy ultra-casual coffee house is an ideal place to unwind with a newspaper or book while you savor a cappuccino, panino or a salad (which is made at the nearby Farm Country Kitchen).

(Moderate) Michaels' at the Boardwalk, 65 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-591-2710. Renowned Long Island chef Michael Meehan is in the kitchen at this upbeat and recently opened spot. The lunch menu features such choices as a lobster roll, turkey club wrap with applewood bacon, oyster po' boy, Cobb salad topped with either grilled chicken, flat iron steak or barbecued spiced shrimp.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Athens Gyro & Grill, 33 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-1301. At this contemporary Greek restaurant, lunch specialties are as enticing as they are well-priced. At a recent midday meal, a salad, topped with juicy char-grilled lamb, goat cheese and walnuts, was a real treat. Other offerings include spinach pie, a gyro or falafel platter and pasta topped with Mediterranean meatballs, fresh tomatoes, mint and garlic.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Riverhead Grill, 85 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-8495. It's a veritable time warp at this diner-coffee shop beloved for its simple fare. Here, locals as well as court personnel gather for everything from Western omelets to tuna salad on toast. Homestyle specials include fresh roast ham, stuffed cabbage, Salisbury steak or broiled flounder. For dessert, there's house-made carrot cake or tapioca pudding.

(Inexpensive) Star Confectionery, 4 E. Main St., Riverhead, 727-9873. Known locally as "Papa Nick's," this landmark ice cream parlor and luncheonette has been in the same family since 1920. Here, the pleasures are simple and inexpensive: a BLT, a burger, an egg salad sandwich, an egg cream, a hot fudge sundae. The ice cream is house-made, the fudge is divine; if only they didn't use aerosol whipped cream.

(Moderate) Tweeds Restaurant & Buffalo Bar, 17 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-208-3151. At this clubby Victorian spot, a huge buffalo head hangs over the bar. Here, the specialty is bison in all its permutations. For lunch, there's a marinated bison steak salad, a bison Reuben or a bison burger. You can also get bison chili. If you roam from buffalo, there are options like an Aquebogue duck wrap or classic Caesar salad.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Parto's, 12 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-4828. This lively downtown spot offers pizza as well as Italian specialties. The interior has a lot of brick and wrought iron; the menu emphasizes red sauce. You could make a lunch out of a personal pizza from the restaurant's brick oven (everything from a simple Margherita to a more ornate version with ham, artichokes, mushrooms, black olives, onions and mozzarella). There are heroes, hot and cold, a grilled chicken Caesar, as well as all manner of pasta and calzone.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Farm Country Kitchen. 513 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-369-6311. Look for the chalkboard on the side of the road, which will lead you to this hidden jewel. Here, Tom Carson puts out a changing roster of farm-fresh soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps. On one visit, it was hard to say which was better, the verdant spinach bisque or the smoky black lentil and bacon soup. A sprightly salad topped with three small crab cakes featured fresh field greens, mangoes, cucumbers, cabbage, carrots, endive and grilled Vidalia onions in a basil vinaigrette. Impressive, too, was a wrap of spicy Cajun chicken, cilantro pesto, Jack cheese, black beans and papaya. In fine weather, eat on the veranda overlooking the river.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Funcho's Fajita Grill, 1156 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-369-7277. At this heavily trafficked place for Tex Mex specialties, you order at the counter and eat indoors or out. Specialties include multifold quesadillas, from the simple (grilled chicken or steak) to the creative (bbq-dilla with black beans, cheese, corn, lettuce and chipotle barbecue sauce). There are soft corn fish tacos, fajitas as well as salads (like the ensalada fajita, made with black beans, steak or chicken), burritos, wraps and enchiladas.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Hy Ting Restaurant, 54 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-1557. This is a modest-looking place, its main decorative element a large fish tank. The food, however, outshines the ambience, making it a reliable standby for those with business at the nearby county courts. Wonton soup is a simple classic. Meaty, nicely glazed spareribs with roast pork fried rice is very good, as is the appealingly smoky roast pork lo mein.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Julia's Pizza, 29 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-369-8332. A popular spot for pizza, be it eat-in or takeout, the place can be relied upon for quick to-go orders. You can also eat in and choose among wraps (a spinach salad with chicken and another with mushroom, egg and peppers), heroes (meatball or chicken francese), pastas (like lasagna and tortellini carbonara) and entrees (such as eggplant parmigiana and sausage and peppers).

(Inexpensive to moderate) Spicy's Bar-B-Que, 225 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-727-2781. Nothing fancy, this Riverhead landmark features its own style of barbecue - ribs that aren't slow smoked but rather baked and then doused with a Southern mustard-based barbecue sauce. The chopped barbecue sandwich is a mix of pork and beef in barbecue sauce. There's also fried chicken, fish, clams, scallops, shrimp and oysters as well as a host of Southern sides.

(Inexpensive to moderate) The Roadhouse, 1111 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-208-9888. Although brick oven pizza - from a Grandma pie to a Sicilian square to a traditional Neapolitan - is the focus of this informal order-at-the-counter spot, there are other attractions. If a salad is what you crave, the menu lists several, including Caesar, Greek and Gorgonzola. Hearty pastas, such as baked ziti or lasagna with sausage and meatballs, are available. If pressed for time, you can pick up a hero or sandwich to go.

(Inexpensive) Taqueria Mexico, 709 E. Main St., Riverhead, 631-208-2902. At this hospitable little cafe, tacos are made with handmade tortillas; varieties include chicken, beef, pork and chorizo. There are also huaraches and tamales filled with chicken and green sauce or hot peppers and cheese. It's the real Mexican deal.

NASSAU/MINEOLA

Walking Distance:

(Inexpensive to moderate) Jane Caf�, 92 Main St., Mineola, 516-742-0031. A big hit among Asian food cognoscenti, this diminutive spot offers well-executed Korean and Japanese specialties. The sushi is super-fresh, as evidenced by the salmon and avocado roll, the (very) spicy tuna roll and the Jane Caf� roll comprised of assorted fish and Asian pickles. Try the superior bibimbap, a savory bowlful of vegetables, beef and rice topped with a fried egg, to be mixed with a spicy red bean paste at the table. Jap chae (stir-fried cellophane noodles) is comforting, as is the fluffy seafood pancake.

(Inexpensive) Premier Gourmet, 110 Old Country Rd., Mineola, 516-746-1666. This all-purpose eat-in and take-out deli with salad bar and grill is frequented by judges and court clerks alike. Situated across Old Country Road, it's a convenient spot for everything from a bowl of soup to a Ruben sandwich to a grilled chicken Caesar salad to a cheeseburger deluxe. In the morning, you can stop in for French toast or, if you're watching calories, a "healthy" wrap made with turkey, egg whites and Swiss.

(Moderate) Davenport Press Restaurant, 70 Main St., Mineola, 516-248-8300. Legal types regularly converge at this comfortable Continental old timer. Here, options include a baby field greens salad topped with fresh salmon, a corned beef sandwich, a burger or veal wiener schnitzel.

(Inexpensive) Benchmark Cafe, 170 Old Country Rd., Mineola, 516-248-7757. With its convenient location across from the Nassau County Court buildings, this deli cafe draws a crowd of assistant district attorneys, lawyers, jurors and the occasional judge. It's got indoindoor and outdoor seating areas. to enjoy in fine weather as well as indoor tables for chilly or wet days.You can get breakfast or lunch made to order or select, from the self-serve buffet, such dishes as lemon chicken with capers over rice. Sandwich possibilities include standards (tuna salad, pastrami, BLT) as well as specialties (the "paisano" comprised of char-grilled chicken, chopped onion, tomatoes and balsamic vinegar on semolina bread). There are also several salads.

(Inexpensive) Samba Grill, 124 Old Country Rd., Mineola, 516-750-5762. Directly across from the Nassau County courts, this buffet-style Brazilian eatery brings a bit of South American flair to the municipality. From the buffet table comes an interesting array: bacalhau (cod fish with potatoes), fish stew (peixe ensopado) and oxtail (rabada). Several kinds of skewered meats are offered, among them chicken, turkey wrapped in bacon, pork loin, skirt steak and pork spare ribs. Everything is sold by the pound - $4.99 a pound for hot and cold buffet, salad bar plus barbecued meats or $6.99 a pound for barbecued meats alone. For those who require something sweet, there are such Brazilian desserts as flan and passion fruit mousse.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Panda House, 122 Old Country Rd., Mineola, 516-873-8300. This handy little takeout eat-in spot rates highly with Nassau County court personnel, who only have to cross Old Country Road (or call for delivery) to enjoy a lunch of kung pao chicken or beef with string beans. The menu is extensive, covering favorites from Canton, Hunan and Sichuan. There are 27 combination plates, such as hot and spicy shrimp with pork fried rice and egg roll. The menu also includes a roster of diet dishes, such as three kinds of mushrooms with bean curd. Lunch specials come with soup or egg roll or soda, along with white rice, and range from roast pork egg foo young to baby eggplant with garlic sauce.

(Inexpensive) Souvlaki Stop,111 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 516-747-3458. At this small Greek eatery, a short stroll from the court, those who want simple luncheonette fare can grab a BLT, a burger or a grilled cheese sandwich. But there are more interesting ethnic enticements, such as an appetizer of spinach pie or taramaslata (roe dip), a ground lamb and beef gyro sandwich or a pork souvlaki sandwich. There are also platters, such as moussaka or pastitsio, as well as an array of kebobs. Dessert might be baklava or galactobourico (vanilla custard in phyllo).

(Moderate) The St. James, 190 2nd St., Mineola, 516-742-3040. Efficient service is just one reason this attractive Irish-American bar-restaurant has a following with the legal trade. Another is the breadth of the menu, from a grilled chicken quesadilla to steak sandwich to a burger to roasted lemon pepper chicken. At a recent lunch, a turkey, bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich with melted Swiss was surprisingly good, the turkey flavorful and moist. A grilled chicken salad with Gorgonzola and walnuts featured sprightly greens, juicy chicken. Dessert was a respectable (though not house-made) chocolate cake.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Recovery Room, 214 Station Plaza N., Mineola, 516-248-2540. This basic Irish bar with a few tables in back is full of pleasant culinary surprises. One is a high-quality hefty, juicy char-grilled burger -- especially the version smothered in sauteed mushrooms, onions and Swiss. The turkey burger is also a winner, as is the fine veggie sandwich made with grilled portabello mushrooms and roasted peppers covered with a melt of mozzarella. The menu also has such Irish favorites as shepherd's pie and fish and chips.

(Inexpensive) Station Plaza Coffee Shop,206 Station Plaza, Mineola, 516-746-5150. This no-frills luncheonette is especially popular at breakfast. At midday, a Western omelet with home fries was good, if not exceptional. A turkey burger was juicy but a trifle on the salty side. The rest of the menu covers the usual bases - chicken salad, BLT, grilled cheese. (Inexpensive) Gonzo's Mexican Grill, 147 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 516-248-2112. A popular answer to the craving for something Tex-Mex and fresh, this diminutive spot has a fresh salsa bar showcasing a bright pico de gallo as well as several salsas. The menu is simple and focused. There are burritos (the "Gonzo" burrito comes filled with charbroiled chicken or steak, pico de gallo, black or pinto beans, Mexican rice and salsa) as well as salads, from a fajita salad to a Mexican chicken Caesar. Quesadillas (steak, chicken and a host of others) and tacos (like the fish taco with shredded cabbage) plus wraps and nachos round out the menu.

(Moderate) Jani, 121 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 516- 294-5625. At this comfortable Chinese-Japanese restaurant, you'll almost always find a courthouse crowd. The sushi, while fresh, takes a back seat to such Chinese classics as kung pao chicken and shredded beef with garlic sauce, which proved very good one recent afternoon. There's also a menu of diet specials, like scallops with mixed vegetables.

(Moderate) Larry Forgione's Signature Cafe at Lord & Taylor, 1200 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-742-7000. Consider lunch with a little retail therapy on the side. At this chef-driven department store restaurant, you'll find such choices as a Waldorf salad, a BLT done with applewood smoked bacon, a pizzette or a quiche. For dessert, Forgione's toasted ice cream sandwich is de rigeur.

Short Driving Distance:

(Inexpensive to moderate) Ben's Kosher Delicatessen & Restaurant, 59 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-742-3354. This is the place for the kind of food that makes you forget about voir dire and habeus corpus. Have a bowl of chicken soup with noodles and fat, fluffy matzah balls. Some days, nothing beats a sandwich of pastrami, warm and frilled with fat, on fresh rye bread. Or a Hebrew National hot dog served with superior hand-cut fries. Sure, Ben's has salads - lots of them - but salads you can get anywhere. Good chopped liver, a fine tongue sandwich - those are harder to come by.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Bagel Boss, 43 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-248-1155. Craving a first-rate smoked whitefish salad sandwich on a bialy? Cream cheese and lox on an everything bagel? Egg salad on a sunflower seed flagel (flat bagel)? This kosher Long Island chainlet has the right stuff. It's also got salads, soups, omelets. Order at the counter and dine indoors or out.

(Moderate) B.K. Sweeney's Uptown Grille, 636 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-746-3075. At this popular up-market pub, you can start with a bowl of onion soup au gratin spiked with Jack Daniels. Salads (like the Santa Fe steak salad) are a lot more than just greens. The menu offers burgers, wraps and entrees - such as sauerbraten or chicken kebabs - as well. You won't leave hungry.

(Moderate) Asian Moon, 825 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-248-6161. For a touch of serenity, this pan Asian spot offers an indoor waterfall. Here, reasonably priced lunch specials are drawn from all over Asia. A recent highlight was a fragrant Malaysian red curry with shrimp. Other options include chicken, beef, shrimp or tofu with a spicy Thai mango sauce or sesame chicken.

(Moderate) Grimaldi's, 980 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-294-6565. A branch of the original Brooklyn locale, this atmospheric Italian spot is known for its superior coal oven pizzas. Yes, you can get a salad (the Caesar is a good one), but that's not why you've come. Pizza crusts are crisp, standing up well to the heartiest of toppings, such as a combo of zesty pepperoni and roasted red pepper. The garlic white (ricotta and mozzarella) pizza is rich and savory.

(Moderate) Sushi-Ya, 949 Franklin Ave., Garden City, 516-873-8818. You'll find ultra-fresh sushi as well as lively hibachi specialties at this friendly in-town spot. Lunch specials, which come with both soup and salad, feature such items as a roll combo (tuna, yellowtail and Califiornia), a sashimi bento box (which also includes a spicy salmon roll, chicken teriyaki and shumai) and hibachi salmon.

(Moderate) Grand Lux Cafe, Roosevelt Field, Garden City, 516-741-0096. If you don't have to wait for a table, this glitzy giant is a good pick for big, bright salads and lots more. Miso-glazed salmon is moist and delicate, its sauce sweet but not cloying. The ample lunch-sized Southwestern salad comes topped with plenty of chicken, black beans, cheese and vegetables in a vibrant honey-lime vinaigrette. Order the flaky apple pie when you sit down and it will be baked to order for you.

(Moderate) Houston's, Roosevelt Field, Garden City, 516-873-1454. At this dark and atmospheric mall-side restaurant, everything is prepared with great care. Hamburgers are thick, juicy and flavorful. The veggie burger is a revelation, glazed and smoky, topped with cheese, tomatoes and onion. Sides, like a sprightly couscous and delicious roasted Brussels sprouts, are standouts.

(Moderate) Vincent's Clam Bar, 179 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-742-4577. If you see tomato sauce stains on court personnel, they may have been lunching at Vincent's. Midday choices include hot heroes (chicken, meatball and veal parmigiana), pastas (linguine with white clam sauce or lasagna), wraps (grilled chicken with roasted peppers) and pizza. A specialty is fried calamari, which comes with pasta.

(Inexpensive to moderate) Panera Bread, 165 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-739-2090. This quick in-and-out chain is known for sandwiches, like a chicken, bacon and mustard panino or a Sierra turkey sandwich with chipotle mayo, all served on house-baked bread. Recently, Panera started offering "crispani" pizzas made with organic tomatoes. You'll also find a variety of soups and salads plus house-baked cakes, brownies and cookies.

(Moderate) LL Dent, 221 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-742-0940. Southern hospitality and down-home cooking define this inviting strip mall spot. Start with Toby's Georgia hash, an old family recipe that's as much stew as spicy soup. Well-executed classics, like a fine pulled pork sandwich, meaty barbecued ribs and a southern fried chicken salad sandwich, should be followed by a dessert of chef Leisacq Dent's excellent meringue-topped banana pudding.