These days, you almost need a score card to keep up with myriad openings and closings of barbecue joints. That's why this list of reliable sources of 'cue should come in handy - for now, at least.
Nassau County
Big Daddy's, 1 Park Lane, Massapequa Park, 516-799- 8877. Although not well known as a barbecue joint, this source of rip-roaring Cajun-Creole-Southern fare also offers commendable pit barbecue. The chicken is deeply flavorful, redolent of the smoker. There are also slow-smoked St. Louis-style spareribs, a pulled-pork sandwich and a barbecued-beef po'boy.
Swingbelly's Beach Side BBQ, 909 W. Beech St., Long Beach, 516-431-3464. At this funky, informal spot, chef Bryan Forgione does such a professional job with his spice rubs, the well-crusted ribs don't even need any sauce. There are inventive dishes, like peanut-barbecue chicken lettuce wraps, as well as all the classics. Side dishes are particularly fine, as is diabolically rich chocolate-pecan tart.
Suffolk County
Bobbique, 70 W. Main St., Patchogue, 631-447-7744. You order at the counter, and your dinner is brought to you at chef-pitmaster-owner Eric Rivkin's popular spot in downtown Patchogue. Ribs are a little crusty on the outside, ever so slightly glossed with barbecue sauce, the tender meat imbued with smokiness. The mac 'n cheese is al dente, as it should be, the baked beans sweet but not overly. Finish with "Lincoln logs," irresistible little French toast sticks.
Seconds Barbecue, 2 Washington Ave., Amityville, 631-789-0260. The strictly takeout place offers meaty barbecued baby back ribs as well as smoky, burnished chicken, both slow-cooked in the smoker before being finished, with barbecue sauce, on the grill. Thick glazed slices of brisket are especially good. So is the moist cornbread. Finish with red velvet cake.
Smokin' Al's Famous BBQ Joint, 19 W. Main St., Bay Shore, 631-206-3000. Brooklyn-born Al Horowitz is still going strong, so much so that he's planning to open a second spot in Massapequa Park. Pigs fly high, here, both in the restaurant's porcine decor and on its menu. Start with the smoky, creamy Brunswick stew, loaded with chicken, sausage, pork and vegetables. Both the baby back and St. Louis ribs are first-rate, as are the brontosaurian beef ribs. You'll need that roll of paper towels on the table.
Townline BBQ, 3593 Montauk Hwy., Sagaponack, 631-537-2271. Celebs and common folk congregate at this rustic order-at-the-counter spot for rib-sticking ribs, both pork and beef, as well as pulled pork, barbecued chicken and brisket. Try the house-made spicy bread-and-butter pickles; finish with banana pudding or fried cherry pie.
