Ariana -- 255 Main St., Huntington, 631-421-2933 - The vibrant, soothing fare of Aghanistan is well-represented at this friendly Huntington spot. Mantoo (meat dumplings topped with yogurt) and aushak (delicate leek-filled ravioli) are just two of many choices.
Besito - 402 New York Avenue, Huntington, 631-549-0100 - Not your father's Mexican restaurant, this contemporary hot-spot sidesteps cliches with such alternatives as budin de mariscos, a tortilla pie filled with crabmeat, and filete de res, beef tenderloin crusted with tortilla and cheese.
Bistro Cassis - 55B Wall St., Huntington, 631-421-4122 - Wildly popular and very French, this atmospheric bistro offers such classics as mussels Provencale and steak frites. The lunchtime salads are particularly appealing as are desserts like the crackly topped crème brulee.
Bliss - 766 Rte. 25A, East Setauket, 631-941-0430. Chef Richard Desmond, a formidable tenor, often regales diners. Most of the time, though, he's in the kitchen, cooking up such dishes as a "millefeuille" of pasta sheets enfolding savory pot roast. His desserts are show-stoppers.
The Blue Room - 93 Larkfield Rd., East Northport, 631- 261-5761 - Cobalt blue is the dominant color at this lively little dining spot with an upbeat New American menu that ranges from crab cakes to duck confit risotto.
Bonbori - 14 Elm St., Huntington, 631-673-0400 - On a summer's evening, locals in the know stake out tables in the outdoor courtyard of this Japanese restaurant, which recently added a Thai menu. Sashimi and moonlight make a winning combination.
Carnival - 4900 Nesconset Hwy., Nesconset Shopping Plaza, Port Jefferson Station, 631-473-9772. It's a carnival of eating at this popular Port Jefferson trattoria-pizzeria, which serves up prodigious quantities of old fashioned Italian food to hungry hordes. The eggplant rollatine is a standout.
Chefs of New York - 508 Larkfield Rd., East Northport, 631-368-3156 - Nothing fancy, this strip mall Italian pizzeria and restaurant serves up hearty fare at more than reasonable prices. Try the lush spinach pizza or the mozzarella-topped chicken pizzaiola made with onions, peppers, mushrooms and light tomato sauce.
Cirella's at Saks Fifth Avenue - 230 Walt Whitman Rd., (Walt Whitman Shopping Center), Huntington Station, 631-350-1229 - Anyone who appreciates topnotch sushi should pay a visit to this unlikely department store cafe for chef Alan Kim's supremely fresh and delicately wrought raw fish creations. Salads and sandwiches are fine, as well.
Collage - 23 Wall St., Huntington, 631-427-5256 - Adventuresome diners will find a colorful collage of inventive dishes - like tuna "palooza" and a "menage a trois of foie gras" - at this buoyant Huntington dining spot.
The Cooke's In - 767 New York Avenue, Huntington Station, 631-424-2181 - Juanita Cooke's friendly, freewheeling restaurant covers a lot of culinary territory - Southern, Caribbean and a touch of Italian. This is where to go for something hearty and soul-satisfying, like barbecued ribs, fried chicken or jerk pork. Side dishes are a meal in themselves; the corn pudding is habit-forming.
El Dorado Southern BBQ - 4837 Nesconset Hwy., Port Jefferson Station, 631-473-8525. This Texas-themed barbecue house serves up all the favorites - ribs, brisket and pulled pork. Bring the kids; they won't mind the raucous noise level.
Elk Street Grille - 201 Main St., Port Jefferson, 631-331-0960. A New American menu is featured at this historic American landmark, formerly the Elk's Hotel and Restaurant, which dates back to 1920. Current offerings include sesame grilled tuna and roast Long Island duckling.
Fonda Coyoacan - 1026 New York Ave., Huntington Station, 631-547-7259 - The Huntington area is fortunate to have this authentic little Mexican spot, located in a grocery store. Here, you'll find the definitive tacos al pastor and sample such delicacies as huaraches with huitlacoche (an aromatic corn fungus) and tinga (chicken stew) quesadillas.
Indigo - 70 Gerard Street, Huntington, 631-424-7757 -Those who seek will find this popular place for eclectic fare off the municipal parking lot. Past recommendations include grilled brook trout stuffed with lemon and topped with fennel confit as well as a fine Black Angus strip steak with mushroom cabernet glaze.
Kimi - 115 Main Street, Port Jefferson, 631-928-8868. Although this might look like a typical blond wood Japanese restaurant, the kitchen can get creative with such dishes as seafood-stuffed eggplant and broiled squid with ginger sauce. Special maki rolls are inventive and well-wrought, sushi and sashimi consistently fresh and fine.
Kurabarn - 479 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-673-0060 - For more than 25 years, locals have been enjoying the fresh sushi creations at this art-filled old house on the outskirts of town. Don't miss the dandy chocolate mousse with freshly whipped cream for dessert.
Lombardi's on the Sound - 44 Fairway Dr., Port Jefferson, 631-473-1440. A scenic water view and plus-sized portions of steaks, chops, pastas and Parmigianas make this offspring of the original Mama Lombardi's in Holbrook a second generation success story.
Mac's Steakhouse - 12 Gerard Street, Huntington, 631-549-5300 - A circular mahogany staircase and a glassed-in wine cellar underscore the tasteful grandeur of this Huntington steakhouse. The kitchen lives up to the ambience, from tuna tartare and oysters Rockefeller to a Porterhouse for two or a Maine lobster.
Main Street Cafe - 47 Main Street, Northport, 631-754-5533 - The burgers are thick and juicy at this shoebox-sized watering hole in picturesque Northport village. Main course salads (the duck breast and spinach especially) are generous and fresh, and entrée specials are generally well-executed.
North Shore
