I ate my way through six prix-fixe multicourse menus, often earlier than I usually care to dine. The upside was finding service that was more attentive than I had expected.
The meals I sampled ran between $22 and $29 a person. A few restaurants included a glass of wine, a nice bonus, and one place also added coffee or tea. All told, with beverages, tax and tip, dinner for two usually hovered in the vicinity of $100, not cheap but a good value. Because portions were generous, I invariably left with a doggie bag, stretching one meal into two.
NASSAU COUNTY RESTAURANTS VISITED
CoolFish. 6800 Jericho Tpke. (North Shore Atrium), Syosset, 516-921-3250;
tomschaudel.com.
The deal: $25.95 for three courses (soup or appetizer, entree, dessert.
When it's available: Sunday to Friday, 5 to 6:30 p.m.
The experience: At this large and attractive New American restaurant improbably situated in an office building, I began with plump steamed Prince Edward Island mussels in a complex Thai-accented red curry broth. A hefty slab of nicely grilled North Atlantic salmon with ratatouille married well with its piquant olive tapenade and lemon oil topping. Dessert was a homey apple upside-down tart served warm with vanilla ice cream.
Service: Attentive
Snaps. 2010 Wantagh Ave., Wantagh, 516-221-0029; snapsrestaurant.com.
The deal: $24.95 for three courses (appetizer, entree, dessert); supplement for some dishes.
When it's available: Wednesday to Friday and Sunday, all night; Saturday, 4 to 6 p.m.
The experience: At this chic yet informal contemporary American restaurant, dinner kicked off with a flavorful, crisp Caesar-salad-with-attitude, which arrived in a martini glass. Grilled hanger steak was succulent and tender, drizzled with a tangy blue cheese sauce. On the side were creamed spinach and some irresistible garlic-herb French fries presented Euro-style, in a conical holder. The rousing finish was a pecan- bourbon-chocolate tart
with caramel gelato.
Service: Friendly
West End Cafe. 187 Glen Cove Rd. (Clocktower Shopping Center), Carle Place, 516-294-5608;
westendli.com.
The deal: $27.95 for three courses (appetizer, entree, dessert); surcharge for one dish.
When it's available: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 6:45 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 6 p.m., Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m.
The experience: Two of us showed up at this stylish New American restaurant without reservations at 5:30 p.m.; consequently, we had to settle for seats at the bar. "You'll have fun," the maitre d' assured us. We actually did. I started with a bright and nicely dressed Gorgonzola and pecan salad that contained Asian pears, greens, arugula, dried cranberries and roasted beets, but few of the promised pecans. That was the only shortcoming of a meal that proceeded with a thick, supremely juicy maple-glazed pork chop with a seductive chipotle-sweet potato gratin and sweet corn relish. For dessert, a chocolate-raspberry mousse was lush and airy.
Service: Affable
Other Nassau restaurants offering prix-fixe meals (not reviewed)
Benvenuti. 12 Watkins St., Lynbrook, 516-599-0298. $17.95 for four courses; Tuesday to Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., Sunday, 1 to 9 p.m.
