Prix-fixe deals on LI

BY JOAN REMINICK
Newsday Staff Writer

January 10, 2007

I ate my way through six prix-fixe multicourse menus, often earlier than I usually care to dine. The upside was finding service that was more attentive than I had expected.

The meals I sampled ran between $22 and $29 a person. A few restaurants included a glass of wine, a nice bonus, and one place also added coffee or tea. All told, with beverages, tax and tip, dinner for two usually hovered in the vicinity of $100, not cheap but a good value. Because portions were generous, I invariably left with a doggie bag, stretching one meal into two.

NASSAU COUNTY RESTAURANTS VISITED

CoolFish. 6800 Jericho Tpke. (North Shore Atrium), Syosset, 516-921-3250; tomschaudel.com.

The deal: $25.95 for three courses (soup or appetizer, entree, dessert.

When it's available: Sunday to Friday, 5 to 6:30 p.m.

The experience: At this large and attractive New American restaurant improbably situated in an office building, I began with plump steamed Prince Edward Island mussels in a complex Thai-accented red curry broth. A hefty slab of nicely grilled North Atlantic salmon with ratatouille married well with its piquant olive tapenade and lemon oil topping. Dessert was a homey apple upside-down tart served warm with vanilla ice cream.

Service: Attentive

Snaps. 2010 Wantagh Ave., Wantagh, 516-221-0029; snapsrestaurant.com.

The deal: $24.95 for three courses (appetizer, entree, dessert); supplement for some dishes.

When it's available: Wednesday to Friday and Sunday, all night; Saturday, 4 to 6 p.m.

The experience: At this chic yet informal contemporary American restaurant, dinner kicked off with a flavorful, crisp Caesar-salad-with-attitude, which arrived in a martini glass. Grilled hanger steak was succulent and tender, drizzled with a tangy blue cheese sauce. On the side were creamed spinach and some irresistible garlic-herb French fries presented Euro-style, in a conical holder. The rousing finish was a pecan- bourbon-chocolate tart with caramel gelato.

Service: Friendly

West End Cafe. 187 Glen Cove Rd. (Clocktower Shopping Center), Carle Place, 516-294-5608; westendli.com.

The deal: $27.95 for three courses (appetizer, entree, dessert); surcharge for one dish.

When it's available: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 6:45 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 6 p.m., Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m.

The experience: Two of us showed up at this stylish New American restaurant without reservations at 5:30 p.m.; consequently, we had to settle for seats at the bar. "You'll have fun," the maitre d' assured us. We actually did. I started with a bright and nicely dressed Gorgonzola and pecan salad that contained Asian pears, greens, arugula, dried cranberries and roasted beets, but few of the promised pecans. That was the only shortcoming of a meal that proceeded with a thick, supremely juicy maple-glazed pork chop with a seductive chipotle-sweet potato gratin and sweet corn relish. For dessert, a chocolate-raspberry mousse was lush and airy.

Service: Affable

Other Nassau restaurants offering prix-fixe meals (not reviewed)

Benvenuti. 12 Watkins St., Lynbrook, 516-599-0298. $17.95 for four courses; Tuesday to Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., Sunday, 1 to 9 p.m.

Bobby Basil. 183 Franklin Ave., Franklin Square, 516-775-9878. $19.95 for three courses, Monday to Thursday nights.

Bruzells, 451 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-482-6600; $18.95 for three-course "sunset" menu, Monday to Sunday, 5 to 6 p.m.; $23.95 for three-course prix-fixe, Sunday to Friday, 6:15 to closing.

Chez Noelle. 34 Willowdale Ave., Port Washington, 516-883-3191. $27.50 for three courses, Sunday to Friday nights, all evening.

Fisherman's Catch. 111 Bayside Dr., Point Lookout, 516-670-9717, $23.95 for three courses, Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday nights (closed Monday and Tuesday in winter) all night.

Ivy Cottage, 38 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-877-2343; $22.95 for three courses plus coffee or tea; Monday to Thursday, 5 to 6:30 p.m.

Jackson Landing. 2565 Bellmore Ave., Bellmore, 516-785-5353, $21.95 for three courses, $28 for four courses, Monday to Friday, 5 to 7 p.m.

La Primavera, 294 N. Broadway, Hicksville, 516-938-0220; $25.95 for three courses with coffee; Sunday to Friday, 5:30 p.m. until closing.

Lucca. 2520 Merrick Rd., Bellmore, 516-221-1717 - Tuesday to Thursday, 5 to 6:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 5 p.m., all day Sunday. Add $6 to any entree to include soup and salad and dessert and coffee.

Milleridge Inn. 585 N. Broadway, Jericho, 516- 931-2201. $17.76 for 4 courses, which includes coffee; available 3:30 to 6:30 p.m., Monday to Friday.

Nautilus Cafe. 46 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport, 516-379-2566. Complete dinner for the price of any entrée or special, $20.95 to $30.95, Monday to Thursday, 4:30 to 6:30; Friday and Saturday, 4:30 to 6 p.m., Sunday, 12:30 to 6 p.m.

Nicholas James Bistro, 2057 Merrick Rd., Merrick, 516-546- 4805, njbistro.com; $18.95 "early bird" for three courses with coffee, Tuesday to Sunday until 6 p.m.; $24.95 for three course dinner (without coffee), all evening, Sunday to Thursday.

Paddy's Loft, 1286 Hicksville Rd., Massapequa, 516-798-7660; $18.95 for four courses plus coffee or tea; Sunday to Friday, 3:30-7 p.m.; Saturday, 3:30 to 6:30 p.m.

Pompei Restaurant. 401 Hempstead Ave., West Hempstead, 516-485-8620. $19.95 for three courses, which includes wine or soda and coffee, Saturday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; $16.95 for three courses, Tuesday to Friday, 4 to 9 p.m.

Soigne, 1066 Broadway, Hewlett, 516-569-2259; $25.95 for three courses; Monday to Friday all night, Saturday until 6 p.m.

Trattoria Diane. 21 Bryant Ave, Roslyn, 516-621-2591, Sunday night, 5 to 8 p.m., three courses, $29.95.

SUFFOLK COUNTY RESTAURANTS VISITED

Aix en-Provence. 134 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-549-3338, aixli.com.

The deal: $28.95 for three courses (appetizer, entree, dessert) plus an amuse-bouche.

When it's available: Sunday to Friday, 5 to 6:30 p.m.

The experience: In a lovely crimson room, the ambience is as French as it is American. The first presentation was an alluring duck confit wonton with hoisin sauce, a gratis amuse-bouche. Next came a pan-seared Maryland crab cake that was virtually all crab. Organic barbecued pork loin with hoisin marinade, mango relish, baby bok choy and sweet chili sauce was a vibrant plateful. Dinner concluded with lush chocolate banana bread pudding.

Service: Attentive and professional

Mazzi. 493 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington, 631-421-3390.

The deal: Three courses (appetizer, entree, dessert) with a glass of wine for $24.95.

When it's available: Tuesday to Thursday, all night; Friday and Saturday until 6:30 p.m.

The experience: This dark and atmospheric Continental spot exudes an Old World-meets-New World ambience. I enjoyed a gratis glass of cabernet that began the meal. A pear salad with Gorgonzola and walnuts was light and refreshing. Although I had doubts about the dish called chicken vincotta -- poultry cooked in red wine with spices, figs, raisins and capers -- the combination was just delicious. For dessert, old-fashioned chocolate cake was moist and fudgy.

Service: professional

Other Suffolk Restaurants offering prix-fixe meals (not reviewed)

A Touch of Venice. 2255 Wickham Ave., Mattituck, 631-298-5851, www.touchofvenice.com, $26.95 for 4 courses, Thursday to Sunday.

Bobby Van's. 2393 Montauk Highway, Bridgehampton, 631-537-0590, $25 three courses Sunday to Friday night.

Jonathan's Ristorante, 15 Wall St., Huntington, 631-549-0055; $27 for three courses; Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Mauricio's Orlando's II, 645 Middle Country Rd. (Route 25), St. James, mauriciosrestaurant.com, 631-265-9228; $20.95 for three courses with coffee; daily, 4:30 p.m. until closing.

Red Dish Grill, 6300 Jericho Tpke., Commack, 631-462-6042; $21 for three courses; Monday to Friday until 6:30 p.m.; Sunday, all evening.

Snapper Inn. 500 Shore Drive Oakdale, 631-589-0248. $12.99 for two courses, salad and entrée, available Wednesday night 4 to 9 p.m.; Thursday night shore dinner, $24.95, 3 courses (without lobster, $14.95).

The Gatsby, 712 Main St., Islip, 631-581-1900, thegatsby.com; $29.95 for three courses; Tuesday to Friday, 4 to 7 p.m.

Copyright 2008 Newsday Inc.