Long Island Restaurants

Tomo Japanese Steak House

The hibachi chefs are hot stuff at Tomo, which packs 'em in for eating and entertainment. (Newsday photo/Bill Davis)

A kitschy, stylized waterfall showers a decorative stone wall at the entrance of Tomo Japanese Steak House. That's good. The flames shoot pretty high here.

Clanging and clashing spatulas and knives, red-toqued hibachi chefs do their heavy-metal pyrotechnics and juggling while Chopin's "Polonaise" plays in the background.

Here go the chicken and steak, da-da-dum-dum-dum. Airborne are the shrimps, da-da-da, da-da-da-da-da-da-da, da-da. Flames shoot from a volcano of sliced onion. Rewind.

Just in case you think retro isn't rolling, book a seat around the nine-diner hibachi table at Tomo, where you'll be packed in tighter than a California roll and witness a shtick thicker than futomaki.

There's usually a line for these eating-as-entertainment tables, so reserving your spot is wise. Anyone satisfied without the squeeze bottles, minced garlic, cut lemons and company will be content retiring to a banquette or booth away from the action.

In that sense, Tomo actually is two restaurants. It's also the high-octane offspring of Tomo in Smithtown.

Your hibachi choices are basic, updated only slightly from the heyday of the medium: steaks, chicken, shrimp, scallops, lobster tail, salmon, flounder, combinations thereof.

The filet mignon is tender enough, and the "Samurai steak" basically a double-portion of a more fibrous one. Chicken isn't what you'd call inspired. Scallops and shrimp remain moist. The finfish veer perilously close to overcooking.

None of this is very exciting once the performance itself stops. After this blend of "Braveheart" and borscht belt, monotony reigns, whether you're using the honey-mustard or the ginger sauce. But those wild-and-crazy chefs do get a workout.

Going from the cooked to the raw, Tomo's sushi is workmanlike, generous and good. The "tsunami" roll storms in with white tuna and salmon and "spicy crunch"; the "Jerry roll" is tuna times two, both spicy and unadorned, with some yellowtail for variety.

The lobster-mango roll has a tropical touch and some spice. The "Black Samurai" roll combines seared, peppery tuna and crunchy, spicy yellowtail for a spirited union. And the Fire Island roll heats things up a little with wasabi, spurring tuna and salmon. The spider roll, or soft-shell crab with cucumber, scallion and masago roe, is crisp, but on the dry side. The "summer roll" is made with white tuna, mango and shrimp. No word on fall or winter yet.

Nigirizushi, or fish on ovals of vinegared rice, is satisfying. Try fatty tuna, fluke, mackerel or bonito. Sashimi, or uncooked fish without rice, also is respectable. Ordered in sufficient quantity, the sushi and sashimi will come in via a mast-free model of a wooden ship.

Cooked dishes include the usual teriyakis and tempuras. Of these, the blond vegetable tempura and seafood teriyaki, with salmon, scallops and shrimp, are recommended.

"Black pepper tuna" stands out as a relative of the black samurai production, with rosy fish, vigorously spiced and finished with a citrus sauce. Quickly grilled tuna tataki with garlic-vinegar sauce has spark.

Usuzukuri, or thinly sliced fluke tartly sauced, is thicker than necessary, but worth sampling. Fried gyoza, vegetable or pork, are neatly seared; shrimp shumai, politely steamed. Age tofu, or deep-fried bean curd, is rather bland; tofu teriyaki is an improvement.

Tonkatsu, the deep-fried pork cutlet, shows up tougher than a campaign ad. The ginger pork and the ginger beef, in a well-seasoned teriyaki sauce, are kinder, gentler selections, with more depth.

Soba, or buckwheat noodles, in a light broth laced with soy, are a mellow alternative to the routine miso and clear soups. Fat white udon noodles get their due in soup with seafood.

Ice cream is the house's dessert in different forms, none of which requires your attention. Just enjoy the atmosphere.

It's not the first time this address has showcased food and amusements. After all, the departed Hamburger Choo Choo used to toot here.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 9/26/04.

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Major Credit Cards Accepted

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Wheelchair Access