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For starters, try the "frites oorlog" Dutch-style hand-cut French fries served in a paper-lined metal container, offered with mayonnaise, peanut sauce and ketchup. Or be adventurous and share one of the more unusual-sounding pizzas.
On a sultry afternoon, try a cool lobster salad, rife with lobster meat, light on mayo, the bed of greens dressed with a lemon-thyme vinaigrette and strewn with fresh strawberries and blueberries.
A dinner entree of bone-in chicken scarpariello is garlicky and fine. Although the tandoori chicken is not cooked in an authentic tandoori oven, it is, nonetheless, a flavorful bird; its accompaniments of couscous and hummus seem a bit weird. Lobster ravioli is a standout, offered with a superior fresh tomato sauce.
For dessert, the flourless chocolate cake is intense and fine. Creme brulee, another standout, has a properly crackly crust.
In summer, you can watch the street scene from an alfresco table. Having lasted more than three seasons, World Pie looks to be that rarity: a Hamptons keeper.
Joan Remenick.