Long Island Restaurants

Duane Park Cafe

NEW AMERICAN. On the outside there's a pretty blue-painted facade complete with planted window boxes; indoors, there's a cozy little bar up front and a candle-lit dining room with peach-painted walls, plenty of flowers, and comfortably spaced tables.

The menu hews pretty closely to the New American line, with an emphasis on herbed and crusted fish as well as beef, lamb, duck, and chicken. Appetizers show off hints of a foreign accent: lobster spring rolls, for example, or gorgonzola souffle. There's a prix-fixe lunch ($20), and a $30 Sunday dinner.

The wine list is varied, with most selections chosen either from France or Italy; the service is friendly; the crowd draws from the neighborhood, both for business lunches and dinners and for casual evenings out.

Compiled by Linda Perney

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