Long Island Restaurants

Graffiti American Cafe

When the restaurant known as G.D. Graffiti opened in 1991, its draw was nostalgic '50s-style jukebox decor and lively American cuisine. Now the cafe has another name and owner, the jukebox is gone and the ambience (noisy as ever) comes off as more bistro than sock hop. While chef-owner Nicholas Hannides' menu offers many new items, a host of favorites from years ago remain.

The food is good and steadily getting better. Crab cakes are zesty, although a bit bready. Fajitas made with steak are juicier than those with chicken; they come with a bright salsa and good, fresh pico de gallo, although the use of plastic cups for condiments detracts from presentation.

At lunch, you'll find a fashionably dressed crowd attacking gorgeous, mountainous salads on the outdoor patio.The "mista" salad - mesclun with roasted peppers, grilled eggplant, little balls of fresh mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes in a balsamic vinaigrette - is a hit. A tropical salad, which combines greens, fruits and nuts, may be ordered with any entree at a surcharge of $3.95. For a dollar less you can start dinner with a fine Caesar salad.

Or else begin with a mu shu chicken hand roll, warm poultry slathered with hoisin, rolled in a tortilla and sliced on the bias. The cold sesame noodle salad and mixed greens underneath are as good as the roll itself. Or share one of the terrific crunchy-crusted pizzas.

Roast chicken is good, if unremarkable, but onion- crusted boneless breast of chicken with mushroom Marsala sauce is downright soul-soothing. Sesame tuna arrives roseate and cool at center (if ordered rare) and is delicious. Memorable, too, is a pan-roasted duck breast with sun-dried cherries and port wine, served with great garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed vegetables. A herbaceous bowlful of penne with chicken, broccoli, wild mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes contains more poultry and vegetables than pasta, a plus.

Skip the bakery desserts and hope that the dark and white chocolate mousse parfait comes out of the kitchen on the day you visit.

At Graffiti, the writing is on the wall: That kitchen is capable of a lot.

Joan Reminick

Hours

Assessment

Cuisine

Major Credit Cards Accepted

Reservations

Special Features

Wheelchair Access