Long Island Restaurants

Saracen

Saracen succeeded the trendsetting Sapore di Mare at this waterside locale. The stars still shine.

The theme is Italian, with a contemporary accent. And the food is consistently very good, served with flair by an attentive staff. On summer weekends, the handsome, restrained spot seems filled to bursting. Try to squeeze in.

Stuffed zucchini flowers, grilled octopus and figs filled with Gorgonzola cheese and pancetta are among the savory openers. You'll also enjoy the lush tuna carpaccio. Devotees of fried calamari and spiedini di mozzarella will be content, too.

Pastas are tasty alternatives. Orecchiette with escarole, white beans and sausage, and black linguine with crabmeat and shrimp in a zesty red sauce are standbys; lobster ravioli and rigatoni with meatballs, also rans.

Snapper finished with olives, tomatoes and rosemary, and grilled tuna with a plum tomato vinaigrette are the big fishes.

Saracen prepares a fine veal chop Milanese, capped with arugula and tomato, and a juicy roasted rack of lamb, completed with red wine. Afterward, consider the salad of arugula and Parmesan cheese.

Desserts are uniformly good. Pick a cool one.

Peter M. Gianotti

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