Long Island Restaurants

Bravo! Nader

Bravo! Nader earns its exclamation point for satisfying, traditional Italian cooking.

The wood-panelled restaurant, sporting photos of cast members from "The Sopranos" as well as a charming image of Audrey Hepburn, can be a little eclectic, too.

Service is friendly and good; the place has an everybody-knows-your-name quality. But it's not clubby.

A tasty opener: sauteed mushrooms atop Gorgonzola-laced polenta. The four-cheese ravioli also is flavorful and generous.

Beef braciola, packed with pine nuts, raisins and prosciutto, leads the entrees. The zeppelin is moored to gnocchi. The breaded and stuffed pork chop, filled with broccoli rabe sausage, takes heftiness to the next level. This also is the place for veal alla Parmigiana. And, in season, they prepare a very lemony order of soft-shell crabs Francaise.

Desserts are few. The low-rise Napoleon leads the group, followed at a distance by the flourless chocolate cake.

Peter M. Gianotti

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