Long Island Restaurants

Hama

At first, Hama seems as if it's going to fade into the suburban mists of sushiland. It's a storefront in a shopping center yet to achieve landmark status for its contributions to inspiration and excitement.

Inside, things do lighten up, in that off-white, blond wood kind of way. The obligatory sushi chart decorates the table. The artwork of birch, bamboo and blossoms softens the place a bit, too.

All the staples of suburban Japanese eateries are available. But you should forgo the pristine route and have some fun with the house's special rolls.

Among these is the Hollywood roll, a DreamWorks combo of yellowtail, salmon and avocado. Godzilla, that other Japanese import, is represented by spicy tuna, avocado, batter and frying: monstrous to purists, not bad for everybody else. Dorothy, doubtless as in Oz, plays with crab, yellowtail and avocado.

"Hot Texas," composed of soft-shell crab, avocado, cucumber and assorted fish, doesn't quite capture Lone Star passion, but will do in its absence. "Volcano" erupts with spicy tuna and shrimp tempura.

The basic negimaki takes on a distinctly regional personality: It includes a layer of mozzarella cheese, creating the ultimate alliance--negimaki alla Parmigiana. But the sauce is mercifully soy, not tomato.

Tuna tartare is a good opener, and the shrimp and vegetable tempuras are workmanlike, clunky, filigree-free.

Hama prepares delicate, fragrant steamed Chilean sea bass with black bean and sesame sauce. Sukiyaki is fine of its kind.

They do fry ice cream here, adding to the indignities visited upon dairy producers. Have your ice cream straight: red bean, ginger, green tea. Or be rebellious. Protest. Skip dessert.

Peter M. Gianotti

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