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Mirabelle

 
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404 N. Country Rd.
Saint James, NY 11780-1705
631-584-5999

Mirabelle has long been the plum of Long Island's French restaurants. The kitchen remains first-rate, through assorted changes, variations in cuisine, and the years.

Chef Guy Reuge's fare invariably is refined and flavorful, whether traditional or nouvelle, inspired by Europe or occasionally by Asia.

The menu is periodically updated. But among the favorites is a two-course duck, with seared breast and confit of leg, that is outstanding. Lamb chop and leg of lamb also make for a delightful duet, cooked with cider.

Reuge expertly sears foie gras, and it should be ordered in whatever the guise du jour is. Delicate ravioli, with salmon and oyster mushrooms, in a wild mushroom sauce, bridges seasons and decades.

Scrod in a peppery potato latticework, and seared salmon accented with shallots, tomato and bell peppers also are excellent.

Desserts are uniformly delectable, as are the sweets that arrive in advance of your coffee.

A glass of mirabelle d'Alsace clearly captures the spirit of the yellow plum, and the distinctive restaurant that bears its name.

Peter M. Gianotti

Hours

Tuesday to Sunday for dinner. Tuesday to Friday for lunch.

Assessment

Premier cru.

Cuisine

French

Directions

About two miles east on Route 25A from the junction of Routes 25A, 25 and 111.

Major Credit Cards Accepted

All major cards.

Price Range

Very Expensive (More than $50)

Rating

Outstanding (4 stars)

Reservations

Required

Special Features

Open for Lunch/Brunch, Business Lunch/Dinner, Romantic Setting, 4-Star Restaurant

Wheelchair Access

One level, but tight.