Long Island Restaurants

Caracalla

Caracalla seems to have been around as long as the Roman baths. It survives all trends. And the Italian-continental fare continues its appeal.

The formal dining room has an evocative, Old World look. And the personable staff fits into the carefully designed picture, too.

This is a restaurant for delicate Dover sole meuniere and ultrarich tournedos Rossini with foie gras and bits of black truffle, duckling a l'orange and roasted branzino.

Begin with the generous and satisfying seafood salad, or with a pasta such as gnocchi with pesto; conclude with zabaglione.

Emperor Caracalla was in power only six years. This Caracalla knows how to last.

Peter M. Gianotti

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