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Mirko's

 
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Water Mill Square
Water Mill, NY 11976
631-726-4444

Mirko's is a graceful, all-seasons restaurant that improves each year. It's a warm, welcome stop, with enticing, creative food and casually elegant style.

Part of the appeal rests with the comfortable appointments and the sense that you're dining in someone's home. But, visuals aside, what makes Mirko's so appealing is its personality, generated by the maitresse d', who's as assured as the chef and conveys both geniality and concern. Mirko's is a well-run establishment, in and out of the kitchen.

The cooking blends Italian and continental with a touch of eastern Europe. The result is confident and consistent.

The menu changes with the seasons. But some favorites over the years include the signature sweet-and-sour stuffed cabbage, the timbale of salmon, and tuna tartare; Moroccan-spiced grilled salmon; penne tossed with capers, olives and peppers; sliced duck breast with a honey-vinegar accent; and pan-seared snapper.

The desserts are uniformly fine, from strawberry soup to caramelized oranges, lemon sorbet with mint to the vibrant chocolate sorbet.

Mirko's is one of the highlights of East End dining.

Peter M. Gianotti

Hours

Thursday to Monday for dinner.

Assessment

Hamptons highlight.

Cuisine

Continental, Eclectic

Directions

Behind the post office, across the main road from the windmill.

Major Credit Cards Accepted

American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

Price Range

Very Expensive (More than $50)

Rating

Excellent (3 stars)

Reservations

Recommended

Special Features

Business Lunch/Dinner, Romantic Setting, 3-Star Restaurant

Wheelchair Access

One level.