Long Island Restaurants

Mario

Mario has been around since Romulus and Remus. It's a popular stop along this busy stretch, serving very good Italian food with businesslike style.

The business lunch is as much a part of Mario as the social evening, in a setting where the staples are served with care. Go with the specials, and enjoy a leisurely meal.

Among the winning dishes are the excellent spaghetti carbonara and agnolotti Bolognese. Tripe Neapolitan-style, rustic and full-flavored, is a very hearty main course, as is the tender calf's liver alla Veneziana.

You'll like the seafood salad for an opener. Or pick the silky bresaola, with olive oil and lemon juice. The kitchen also is dependable for thick and juicy steaks and chops.

For dessert, the Italian cheesecake is a reliable choice, along with tiramisu and perhaps cassata. Of course, there's always spumoni.

An espresso or two will continue the feeling of nostalgia.

Peter M. Gianotti

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