Long Island Restaurants

Mamma Lombardi's

Mamma Lombardi's is the unofficial capital of Tomatoland. On an island awash in red sauce, this is one of the big waves.

It's an Italian restaurant with its soul in Naples and points south. The eatery is buoyant, crowded, kitschy, brusque, efficient ... and very good.

The best advice here is the simplest: eat whatever you like. The kitchen is remarkably consistent. The seafood salad is terrific, the stuffed artichokes and stuffed peppers generous, eggplant rollatine addictive, and all the husky pastas textbook versions.

Heat-seekers will be especially fond of the fiery penne arrabiata, which is angry in the extreme. Manicotti are mandatory, holding enough ricotta to feed two. The place prepares spaghetti alla carbonara with equal aplomb.

Chicken with sausage and potatoes and peppers is a gutsy campagnola. Tripe in red sauce: soulful stuff. And the beef braciola is excellent, packed with pine nuts, raisins, garlic and flavor. Mamma Lombardi's also is the eatery for pork chops with vinegar peppers and lobster fra diavolo.

Finish with cannoli, espresso and satisfaction.

Peter M. Gianotti

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