Long Island Restaurants

Pace's

At Pace's, pretty much everything is well-done except the beef. That's better, and rare.

The clubby restaurant will be instantly familiar to any denizen of steakeries around Long Island. Almost every diner knows exactly why he or she is here.

Start with a shrimp cocktail, or the onion soup; maybe a Caesar salad or the tomato-and-onion production.

Then, go directly to the meat. The porterhouse for two is the main event, an impressive cut and enough to satisfy the hungriest diner. Also very good are the shell steak, the filet mignon and the chopped steak. The rack of lamb is their rival.

For seafood, the respectable choices are the plain, grilled fish, or a lobster. None of the pastas is essential. The creamed spinach and the baked potato are the best sides, regardless of your entree. The desserts are afterthoughts.

A second Pace's is in Port Jefferson, at 318 Wynn Lane; 631-331-9200.

Peter M. Gianotti

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