Long Island Restaurants

Peter Luger

It's always prime time at Peter Luger, the more sedate offspring of Brooklyn's revered and rakish original. While the two differ in style, they share a profound devotion to great red meat.

This palace of porterhouse is vaguely Teutonic, compared with the hall look on Broadway. Service is very good, the meal well-paced.

You could come here for the fish of the day, for broiled chicken, for knockwurst or pot roast or corned beef hash some days. But who are you kidding?

Order the dry aged porterhouse for two, three or four. It's an extraordinary cut of beef, mineral-sweet, juicy, perfectly charred.

The competition comes from the steak for one, chopped steak, the "Luger burger," prime rib, broiled lobster, and lambchops, "extra heavy cut."

On the side: creamed spinach, fried potatoes-and-onions, French fries.

Dessert: cheesecake, apple strudel with schlag, pecan pie the same way.

But concentrate on your main course. You'll search a while to find a better steak between the East River and the lighthouse.

Peter M. Gianotti

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