Long Island Restaurants

Palm Court

Palm Court is the first serious, very good restaurant in Eisenhower Park. It's an opulent place, part of The Carltun complex, which boasts wine-cellar dining, a cigar room, and extensive catering facilities.

The restaurant itself is handsome, evoking a noble house, with a view of the park's greenery, too.

On weekend nights, even this serene space can get very noisy. And service isn't at its best. So much so, that the experience can be markedly different from what it was when the establishment opened. A weekday visit is better.

The food is an updated version of continental, flavorful and very visual. Good choices from the changing menu include crab cakes with Pernod-honey sauce; sauteed foie gras with caramelized apples, pears, cranberries and arugula; and the salad of roasted beets, goat cheese, walnuts and microgreens. You can skip the coconut fried shrimp and the pan-seared ostrich.

For your main course, consider the rack of lamb, with a hint of garlic and Guinness; braised salmon finished with scallion-corn sauce; or the roasted chicken with ginger gremolata.

Dessert: the warm apple tart, creamy cheesecake, creme brulee. Or perhaps a glass of Sauternes.

Peter M. Gianotti

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