Long Island Restaurants

The Coast Grill

In a region of renters, The Coast Grill has the feel of a year-round resident. It's comfortable and unpretentious, at home in the country.

In the main dining room, you may have a window on Peconic Marina and its boats. The setting is casual, the food very good. The staff is confident. They don't have to sell you on this kitchen.

The sashimi-style pepper-crusted tuna, with sesame noodles, gets things going with an Asian accent. Try the crabcake, with orange-caper tartar sauce, too. The house's New England-style clam chowder is very satisfying.

They skillfully steam and broil lobsters, and deftly grill tuna and swordfish. For a summery touch, consider the poached salmon with a lemon-herb vinaigrette. The steaks tend to be overdone.

Cheesecake is a commendable and reliable dessert, and sometimes they'll have a tangy Key lime napoleon. Start with a margarita, conclude with cafe au lait.

Peter M. Gianotti

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