Long Island Restaurants

Stresa

Baedeker's guide to northern Italy, 1895 edition, calls Stresa a "suitable spot for a lengthened stay.'' The restaurant is, too.

Stresa has undergone a facelift this year. That affects the decor of this handsome room. Chef Ella Rocca has added many new dishes to the menu, too. This eatery is a mandatory stop for anyone seriously interested in outstanding food on Long Island.

Bigoli alla Latina, or the Venetian pasta tossed with pancetta, cabbage, tomatoes and pecorino cheese, is a savory choice. Likewise, ravioli Abruzzese, housemade ravioli filled with sausage and lamb, sauteed with wild mushrooms.

Carpaccio with Parmesan cheese, and the salad of octopus, string beans and potato salad are fine starters. So's the Charlotte salad, a colorful combo of diced arugula, endive, radicchio, romaine, mushrooms, asparagus, tomato and roasted peppers. Soups are exceptional, especially the "campagnola," a four-bean production beneath a pastry crust; and the minestra alla Umbra, lentil soup with peas and cotechino sausage.

You'll enjoy the Mediterranean sea bass finished with white wine, lemon and capers; the sauteed veal chop with sundried tomatoes, onions, and a sauce spurred by balsamic vinegar; filet of pork with cabbage; and bistecca alla King, a juicy sirloin with peppers, onions and mushrooms.

They make a terrific flourless chocolate cake and perfect souffles. The addictive biscotti are ideal with a glass of vin santo. You'll be back.

Peter M. Gianotti

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