Long Island Restaurants

Louis XVI

In the kingdom of restaurants, Henry VIII would have been a buffet. Edward VIII: takeout. Louis XVI is a headliner, leading the counterrevolution in favor of excellent food in grand surroundings.

This is one of the more opulent establishments on Long Island, full of crystal and marble. And it has a delightful waterview.

Jimmy Boboris of Harborside, a seafood house in Patchogue, is the overseer; Jean-Claude Teulade, formerly of La Cote Basque in Manhattan, is the chef.

The cuisine is French, changing with the seasons. Among the terrific dishes are truffled consomme, the silken tuna tartare, red snapper wrapped in potato scales and finished with red wine, and a perfect rack of lamb. Also, consider the white asparagus, cappuccino foam soup, with black truffle toast; lobster bisque; frogs' legs with preserved tomatoes and parsley oil; sauteed bison ribeye steak with morels; and any of the tasting menus.

Desserts are showcases. Ice cream peeks through a dark chocolate hat. The "concerto" of dark chocolate; caramelized mandarin crepe souffle; creme brulee degustation; and the souffle of the day are first-class. The Marie Antoinette doll is built with skirts of chocolate and banana sorbet, with a spun-sugar headpiece to evoke Carmen Miranda.

Through all this, service is smooth, the experience exceptional.

Peter M. Gianotti

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