Long Island Restaurants

Salvatore's Coal-Fired Brick Oven Pizza

Although good pizza is easy to come by, the really superlative stuff is not. That's why Long Islanders should be grateful for Salvatore's in Port Washington, owned by Marco and Fred Lacagnina, grandnephews of Patsy Lancieri, who opened Patsy's in Harlem back in 1929. Frank Sinatra was a regular there, and at Salvatore's, he's accorded appropriate homage. Photos of Old Blue Eyes line the walls, and you'll often hear his songs on the sound system.

But the real draw is the pizza, a well-blistered, crisp-crusted pie oozing fresh mozzarella (made in house) and topped with just enough tomato sauce. Toppings, like roasted red peppers and sausage, are fine, but, if you ask me, they weigh down the pie and detract from the perfect simplicity.

Other menu items are okay, but not in the same league as that pizza. A Greek salad is respectable but nothing out of the ordinary. And a dish of baked ziti is what you would expect in any decent Italian restaurant.

But, ah, that pizza. Definitely worth a trip.

Joan Reminick

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Wheelchair Access