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R.S. Jones

 
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153 Merrick Ave.
Merrick, NY 11566-3491
516-378-7177

Co-owners Carole Olkoski and Margaret Mueller are the driving forces behind this funky, kitschy Western-themed restaurant where the cuisine ranges from Southwestern to Southern to Cajun to whatever the kitchen feels like doing. Country-western music (live sometimes) fills the room. Most everybody orders from the blackboard menu, which changes daily.

Begin with a rousing bowl of pork chili or a plate of addictive sweet potato pancakes, served with red apple butter.

Marinated steak is a trifle chewy but very good; grilled chicken with a kicky mango mustard sauce gratifies, too. And it's hard to do better than R.S. Jones' pecan-coated catfish with horseradish cream sauce. Accompanying "smashed potatoes" with cream gravy are truly smashing.

Finish with the knockout chocolate pecan pie or one of the house-made fruit pies, served with lots of fresh whipped cream.

Keep in mind that the restaurant only accepts American Express and cash; reservations are only for parties of 6 or more. And remember: nobody counts calories.

Joan Reminick

Hours

Dinner only, Tuesday to Sunday; closed Monday.

Assessment

Creative country-western cookery.

Cuisine

American, Cajun/Creole, Cajun/Southern, Southwestern, Tex-Mex

Major Credit Cards Accepted

No, Only American Express and cash accepted.

Price Range

Moderate ($15-$25)

Reservations

Not Accepted

Special Features

Suitable for Young Children, Live Entertainment, Offbeat/Quirky, Bar Scene

Wheelchair Access

Not fully accessible.