R.S. Jones
153 Merrick Ave.
Merrick, NY 11566-3491
516-378-7177
Co-owners Carole Olkoski and Margaret Mueller are the driving forces behind this funky, kitschy Western-themed restaurant where the cuisine ranges from Southwestern to Southern to Cajun to whatever the kitchen feels like doing. Country-western music (live sometimes) fills the room. Most everybody orders from the blackboard menu, which changes daily.
Begin with a rousing bowl of pork chili or a plate of addictive sweet potato pancakes, served with red apple butter.
Marinated steak is a trifle chewy but very good; grilled chicken with a kicky mango mustard sauce gratifies, too. And it's hard to do better than R.S. Jones' pecan-coated catfish with horseradish cream sauce. Accompanying "smashed potatoes" with cream gravy are truly smashing.
Finish with the knockout chocolate pecan pie or one of the house-made fruit pies, served with lots of fresh whipped cream.
Keep in mind that the restaurant only accepts American Express and cash; reservations are only for parties of 6 or more. And remember: nobody counts calories.
Joan Reminick
HoursDinner only, Tuesday to Sunday; closed Monday.
Assessment
Creative country-western cookery.
Cuisine
American,
Cajun/Creole,
Cajun/Southern,
Southwestern,
Tex-Mex
Major Credit Cards Accepted
No, Only American Express and cash accepted.
Price Range
Moderate ($15-$25)
Reservations
Not Accepted
Special Features
Suitable for Young Children,
Live Entertainment,
Offbeat/Quirky,
Bar Scene
Wheelchair Access
Not fully accessible.
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